Inside: Bowery Wine Company

Lacking personality, this new wine bar fits in just fine on the 'new' Bowery

By Lauren Shockey

Special to Metromix
April 9, 2008

With the demise of CBGB (recently replaced by, of all things, a John Varvatos store), the advent of Whole Foods, and the transformation of tenement apartment buildings into glossy multimillion-dollar condos and ultra-luxe hotels, the Bowery is the complete antithesis of  what it once was. Something that the owners (which includes Bruce Willis?!) of the Bowery Wine Company—a new bar located on the ground floor of the Avalon Bowery apartment complex—are very much aware of. In fact, they're embracing it and using it as a hook, of sorts: The bar's stated "mission" is "to bring the Bowery into the 21st century."

But is this a good thing? That's debatable, as the sterility and lack of personality, not only of the bar itself but of the whole street, is more than a bit off-putting. Then again, the Bowery’s new (high-paying) residents include people who have never heard of Hilly Kristal and to whom the Bowery slums are just another lyric in a Dylan song. And now they have a wine bar.
 
Drinks: We like the bar's wine philosophy: "All for wine, wine for all" and the notion that a wine bar doesn't have to be stuffy. And while the bar makes a valiant effort to serve a number of unfamiliar international brands, we were miffed by some that we sampled. Among the whites, we moderately enjoyed the Pascal Jolivet "Attitude" Sancerre ($12), which was clean and citrusy, but found the Cusumano Insolia ($8) a little flat and the EvenTide Cellar Viognier ($11) fine, if average. As for the reds, skip the Melini Isassi Chianti ($11), which lacked the bite a good Chianti ought to have, and opt instead for the Cycles Gladiator Pinot Noir ($10), which was a decent Pinot—crisp yet smooth. Since a full bar and beer are also available, we'd suggest opting for a mixed drink. 
 
Food: The extensive, if middling, menu (12 appetizers, four salads, six panini) offers standard favorites like hummus with pita chips ($7), assorted bruschetta ($6), shrimp cocktail ($14), chips and salsa ($6), and Caesar salad ($8). Italian-influenced desserts like tiramisu ($7) and Oreo tartufo ($8) are also available for those late-night sugar cravings.
 
Digs: The space is very sterile clean in that new-car kind of way and seems to be going through a bit of a personality crisis. The red chandelier and framed corkscrews adorning the pillars were nice touches, but the two large flat-screen TVs above the bar and faux-wood paneling screamed "upscale sports bar," and the tables and chairs were, well, a little Cheesecake Factory–inspired. In fact, the bar as a whole seemed a little chain-like, as if it should have been located in a Midwestern strip mall or peppered throughout a number of U.S. cities.
 
Crowd: The crowd was slightly older and not unlike the aforementioned decor (we witnessed a disproportionate number of girls in tube tops and bleached blonde hair). But given its proximity to the Avalon Bowery apartments, we expect that in the coming months, the clientele will get younger and rowdier. 
 
Sounds: The jukebox plays it safe with bar standards, including The Beatles, Bob Marley, The Allman Brothers—you know, good songs that everyone knows and everyone at least sort of likes.
 
Service:  We'll give 'em points for service. Despite a clear lack of wine knowledge, our waitress conferred with the bartender about what wines we might like and gave us samples of three wines before we chose our selections. We were also asked how our wine was (with a big smile) three times during the course of the evening. Nice, friendly touches, for sure, but a little disarming in a city where a trip to the bar doesn't usually mean dealing with such an enthusiastic staff. Then again, maybe we're just jaded and should learn to appreciate the anycity qualities our city seems to be acquiring.
 

Bowery Wine Company
11 E. First St. at Bowery
212-614-0800
bowerywineco.com

Net Results [What folks are Saying online]

Thrillist  “This high-ceiling'd, Mexi-cali-toned lounge is pouring 30 bottles/glasses to abet small bites (crostini, panini, etc) and desserts.”

Shecky’s  “East Village lifers may snort at the sterile interior, complete with (gasp!) track lighting.”

Gridskipper ”Definitely a step up from Planet Hollywood.”

Photo: Dan Peterson