Digs: The multi-roomed bar can best be described as a cross between a Victorian townhouse and weathered Parisian saloon. Old portraits and tarnished mirrors adorn the walls, evoking a vibe that’s upscale and old fashioned without being overly pretentious or a pastiche. The main room—the largest of the spaces—feels open and airy with its vaulted ceilings, large mirrors and elegant white marble bar that extends the length of the room, not to mention the dazzling array of bottles that border the ceiling and that must be accessed by rolling ladder à la old school libraries. The collection of back rooms are far more intimate and are illuminated by flickering votive candles and the warm glow of crystal chandeliers. Add in small round tables and comfortable leather banquettes conducive to muted conversation and you’ve got one of the most romantic date spots in Brooklyn.
Cocktails: This is a classic cocktail lounge, so the drinks are straight out of the Savoy cocktail book. Expect old-timey libations like The Corpse Reviver No. 2 (gin, Cointreau, Lillet, lemon juice and pastis) ($11) which was reviving and also multifaceted, with a clean citrus flavor that paired well with the anise notes of the pastis. The Commandant’s Cocktail (pear cognac, Cointreau, lemon juice and green chartreuse) ($14) was more subtle, but the orange flavor of the Cointreau seemed overpowering at times. The Seelbach Cocktail (bourbon, Cointreau, Angostura bitters, Peychauds bitters and sparkling wine) ($12) was a bit one-note, this time too heavy on the bitters (though a good choice if you really, really like bitters). Moreover, we were slightly disappointed to see a Hemingway Daiquiri (rum, maraschino and lime and grapefruit juices) ($10) and a St. Germain Cocktail (elderflower liqueur, cava and soda) ($12) because, well, these two drinks are a tad overplayed on the cocktail circuit. Sure they go down easy and taste good, but given that Hotel Delmano is only offering seven cocktails on its menu, we think they could have pushed the envelope further with its offerings.
Wine: In addition to cocktails, the bar also offers a pretty impressive wine list, focusing primarily on France, Spain and Italy, including twelve selections by the glass.
Crowd: Despite being in the heart of Williamsburg, you won’t be finding any PBR-swilling hipsters here. Rather, expect to find a laid back, slightly older crowd that clearly doesn’t mind doling out the big bucks for booze. Moreover, the intimate tables, romantic vibe and moody lighting make this bar an obvious date spot, so you’ll likely see more couples than larger groups.
Sounds: Expect Johnny Cash (during the course of our evening, we listened to a whole album) in addition to other random songs of the
'70s. A tad disjointed and unexpected for a classic cocktail lounge, but hey, the '70s are classic now.
Service: Granted, we visited the bar on a bustling Saturday night and, granted, the drinks being served at Hotel Delmano entail more skill than pouring well gin into a glass with one hand and pressing a soda gun with the other, but waiting fifteen minutes to receive drinks is still about ten minutes longer than we would have liked. However, the staff scored points for being very accommodating when we requested to change our tables from the smaller back nook to the main room and they were quite helpful in recommending drinks.
Hotel Delmano
82 Berry St., at N. 9th St.
Brooklyn, NY 11211
718-387-1945
Net Results (what folks are saying online)
[Urban Daddy] Hotel Delmano (ironically hotel-less) brings you the milk and honey you're so used to in Manhattan—with a little extra Brooklyn charm.
[Eater]The ceiling fans, the old fixtures in the bathroom, the long marble bar and big leather banquettes—this is Brooklyn with the ante upped.
[Shecky’s]You'll be kickin' it old school, no doubt, but with a more sophisticated set (i.e. actually cool)
[Grub Street]Billyburg’s first cocktail palace, from the owners of Union Pool
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