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We can all agree that NYC's tiki renaissance is finally here. And as expected, these tropically themed cocktail lounges, and the elaborate libations they dispense, are not only fun and fantastical but tasty, above all. NYC's tiki temple is overseen by a pair of seasoned and classically trained bartenders—Giuseppe Gonzalez and Richard Boccato—who, while working together at LIC's Dutch Kills, had a vision of tiki done right with fresh juices, homemade syrups and an island vibe that is just as much Manhattan as it is Maui. According to plan, Painkiller was born.
Digs: The layout hasn't changed much since East Side Company occupied the space, but, boy, does baby have a new dress on. Actually, it's a grass skirt, lei and coconut bra. The bar is enveloped in bamboo, and the walls dotted with tiki masks where there aren't colorful graffiti tags inspired by old-school New York street gangs. Like a Gauguin painting, naked breasts abound: smiling up at you from the bar and sprouting from a centerpiece vase (a gift from Pegu Club's Audrey Saunders) like so many eyeballs ogling you as you ogle them.
Crowd: During the week, expect to find a mix of cocktail enthusiasts and straight-up tiki geeks. Joe and Nicole Desmond, who run the invite-only Rhum Rhum Room parties, may be sitting across the bar from Jeff "Beachbum" Berry, the author of several seminal tiki guides, or any number of Hawaiian-shirt-sporting merrymakers. On weekends, the bar, like so much of the Lower East Side, becomes a scene. Island-themed getups give way to designer duds. Merrymaking drifts into carousing. A short queue often forms outside.
Drinks: This is where the anything-goes attitude ends and things get serious. The drinks, by and large, are delicious. Ingredients like homemade orgeat syrup, Curaçao and cream of coconut are combined with fresh juices and top-shelf spirits to create complex, refreshing and—make no mistake—powerfully boozy drinks, executed with meticulous attention to detail. Prices ($12 to $16) are justifiable when you consider how labor-intensive some of the homemade components are. The recipes tend to be based on classic tiki creations, which have traditionally been guarded like dark family secrets. Painkiller's are published on its Web site for all to see.
The drinks themselves are proof positive that tiki has been largely misunderstood lo these many years. A Cradle of Life might look like just a silly bowl served aflame, but once you blow out the lime shell, the contents are a prefect balance of spice, sweetness, citrus and nuttiness. More advanced tikiers might opt for a Bastard, originally a hangover cure—intensely gingery yet refreshing. Frozen drinks, long carrying the stigma of the uninitiated, can be sipped without shame. The Piña Colada is a dreamy, creamy vacation in a glass.
Food: There is none just yet, but the free hot dogs you may have heard would be served are still on the way. (The idea for them—and the whole bar, really—came over free hot dogs at Rudy's, in Hell's Kitchen.) The team ordered its commercial steamer long ago, they say, but shipping delays ensued. When it does arrive, the all-you-can-eat dogs (basic franks, nothing fancy) will surely be a welcome addition, if only to soak up some of the alcohol consumed, and maybe prolong one's stay by a drink.
Staff: On any given night, one of the partners can be found behind the stick. No matter who is manning the bar, your drink is sure to be made well and delivered with a smile (although not necessarily expedited with the utmost speed). Both the bar and waitstaff are quick to offer guidance to tiki novices or recommend something new to old pros.
Bottom line: It's difficult not to have fun at Painkiller. The décor, atmosphere and thematic fanfare surrounding the drinks beg for a party to break out, whether it's a slow Tuesday or hopping Saturday night. But the real reason to go is what can be found in the grimacing glasses: great cocktails, albeit strong. Staying for more than a couple is tempting, but your constitution may not allow it.
Painkiller
49 Essex St. between Hester and Grand Sts.
212-777-8454
Photo by Sam Horine
