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Teeny-tiny East Village wine bar Terroir hopes to hit the big time with their new outpost, Terroir Tribeca. The owners of the two spots like to point out that wine is terroir, meaning that what's in your bottle is an expression of the unique soil in which it was grown. Now that this new, and much larger location has sprouted below Canal Street, can it maintain the eccentric, wine-loving flavor of the original?
Space: The stripped-down room is set up like a casual neighborhood bar—just keep in mind that you're in a neighborhood where people who know their wines are willing to spend $14 a glass. Wine bottles take center stage behind the bar, and the shelves make you feel like you're in a combo loft space that doubles as a wine cellar. The long bar is a casual place to camp out—try to nab a spot near the end, so you can scope the hubbub in the open kitchen.
Scene: Can't score a spot at the teeny East Village outpost? The Tribeca version is about quadruple the size (note: estimate performed after drinking numerous glasses of wine). The bustling bar and the pub-height communal tables in the back create a convivial atmosphere, so don't be surprised if you neighbor leans over to inquire about your cheese pairing. The vibe is actually both serious and relaxed at the same time. The waitress may look like a pal you made at a backyard barbecue in the ‘Burg, but she could kick your butt in wine-snob Jeopardy any day.
Drinks: And here's where the fun starts. Their wine list is, to put it simply, epic. It's encased in a binder, more than 50 pages long, and could have been composed by Hunter S. Thompson if he ever went into the service industry First timers might need a little help from the staff when it comes time to diving in. Once you get past the shirtless pictures of Vladimir Putin and the screeds against local street fairs, you can have pretty much anything your drunken heart desires. Right now, the restaurant is promoting its "Summer of Riesling" and they're offering countless by the glass. Opt for the well-balanced Gotham Project Riesling from the Finger Lakes, if only because it's on draft (it doesn't hurt that it's refreshing).
Part of the Terroir experience, though, is digging through this tome and moving from "what the hell is going on with these rants" to "oh, maybe Beaujolais doesn't suck, I'll try the $38 bottle. They also have a choice selection of beer (hoppy Six Point Bengali Tiger IPA—yes, please) and some wine cocktails (skip these). Spend some time digging, and look for a bottle—there are plenty of great deals on the list.
Deals: The Terroirs may be the only bars in town where happy hour lasts for only one hour. A selection of by-the-glass offerings are marked down to $6 between 5 and 6 p.m. It's a rushed timeframe to get the deal, but your wallet will be happy—some glasses are more than half off. During happy hour, they also serve sherry for free. Boo-yah!
Food: The food takes a back seat to the wine list, but you'll still find some goodies to nosh on as you sip your drink. The cheese selections rock. Fans of blue fromage will drool over the hunk of earthy Smokey Blue on the list. Choose wisely though, the cheese is expensive ($6 to $7 per selection). So is everything else. The beet, gorgonzola and risotto balls were swell, but seemed kind of a rip at $7 for a paltry three bites. Save your money for dinner elsewhere. Or, better yet, spend it on another glass of wine.
Verdict: Terroir managed to transport a homey, wine-loving vibe to Tribeca. It's not quite a wine temple. That would be too formal. It's like the wine version of a yoga studio—there's plenty of room to stretch out, the décor helps you unwind, you walk away feeling relaxed, and you might even learn something. It's no freebie Yoga for the People though: If you want to drink here, you'll have to pony up.
Terroir Tribeca
24 Harrison St. between Hudson and Greenwich Sts.
212-625-9463
Photo by Sam Horine
