Inside: The Rusty Knot

Kitsch is cool at this nautically-themed pseudo-dive on the banks of the Hudson River

By Lauren Shockey

Special to Metromix
March 28, 2008

Inside: The Rusty Knot
Bait shack chic from the boys behind The Spotted Pig and Freemans
Unless you've been spending time aboard a submarine these days, you’ve probably heard some sort of rumbling about The Rusty Knot, the new maritime-themed pseudo-dive overlooking the Hudson River helmed by an all-star team. Nightlife sure-things Ken Friedman (The Spotted Pig) and Taavo Somer (Freemans) are behind the hideaway, having tapped Joaquin Baca (Momofuku) to man the bar's kitchen. And while it's easy to dismiss the bar's décor as excessively kitschy, in a city where nightlife too frequently consists of velvet ropes, models, bottles and over-stylized generic settings, The Rusty Knot is a breath of fresh (salty) air.

Digs: Kitsch or not, they’ve got the sea shanty, bait-shack look down pat, with a dash of uncle Hank’s rec room tossed in. Seventies-looking wood panels line the walls, glowing lanterns hang from the ceiling, and basic checkered tiles compose the floor. Theme-appropriate appendages are thrown in as well like a billiards table, a fish tank, a mounted bass and a sizeable mural behind the bar depicting a half-naked gal amid a sunset. You'd be hard-pressed to imagine this was once home to West, a dimly lit, swanky little lounge (whose awning is still flying high outside, for some reason).

Drinks: It's clearly one of the most egalitarian joints around these days, where patrons can swill $13 tropical cocktails then chase them with a 99-cent glass of Busch. The beer offerings are standard yet fitting (canned Tecate, Anchor Steam, Red Stripe bottles) and mainly fall into the $5-to-$6 range, while the cocktail repertoire consists of tropical and nautically themed concoctions. We weren't impressed with the namesake Rusty Knot ($7), a one-note combo of blended rum, ice and mint, but the bar's version of a Dark and Stormy ($12) had a welcome spicy ginger kick and plenty of tart lime. And now that the weather is warming up, drinks like the Zombie (a sweet-tart mix of passion fruit, guava, rum, lemon and lime; $13) and the surprisingly boozy Mai Tai ($12) can offer some tropical irony (ahhh...Mai-Tais along the Hudson).

Food
: Given Friedman and Somer’s affiliations with The Spotted Pig and Freemans, it's not surprising that the food here is worth its salt—and won’t leave you bust. Baked mussels ($12) were moist and flavorful, thanks to the addition of Benton's bacon in the stuffing, and we particularly liked the chicken-liver-and-bacon sandwich ($8). Oysters ($3 each) were plump, and while shanty snacks like meat pies and pretzel dogs were a bit uninspired, at $3 a pop who really cares?

Sounds
: Classic rock all the way. The antique-looking jukebox is stocked with all the favorites from The Eagles, Boston, Lynyrd Skynyrd and Springsteen. It doesn’t matter if you’re sipping your dollar beer or a $13 tiki concoction; the classic tunes go well with both. In fact, given the setting, we can't think of a better soundtrack.

Crowd: The bar's far-reaching West Village location makes it both a popular after-work stop for the (still-employed) bankers living in the nearby Richard Meier buildings, as well as a happening weekend scene for neighborhood folks, hipster-types, foodies and bar aficionados who appreciate basic grub and well-made cocktails. And expect to see anyone looking to chill out at a dive bar that's not technically divey, where a $1 drink is just as easily accessible as a $13 one.


Net results: what folks are saying online:

[Daily Candy] "A small new bar on the West Side Highway with primo sunset views."

[Grub Street] "Don't expect to hear Masta Ace or New Young Pony Club, like you might at the Pig."

[Eater] "It's going to be the hottest place on the planet and they really might not have any room for you."

[Juli b] "Tiki drinks served in kitschy plastic totem glasses or coconut shells are mixed up behind the bar."

The Rusty Knot
425 West St. (at W.11th St.)
212-645-5668
Mon.-Sun. 5 p.m.-4 a.m.

Photo: Dan Peterson

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