As a master mixologist, Brian Miller pushes the envelope at Death & Co., the East Village cocktail mecca that’s feeding the city’s current (and insatiable) designer-cocktail frenzy. You wouldn't ask Superman to put out a campfire, and you don't ask Brian to make you a rum and Coke. Push your way through Death & Co.’s heavy wooden doors—and the line to get in—and there you’ll find Miller: cool, gentle, intense. You see it in his arms as he mixes classic cocktails like a Ramos Gin Fizz or a White Lady, always with his sleeves rolled up.
We rolled up our own sleeves to get down with Miller on hangover cures, what he’ll never drink, and that teeny-tiny tip he once pocketed.
Is the hidden-bar trend here to stay?
That's kind of any oxymoron, because if it was hidden or secret no one would be able to go it. Everyone accused Death & Co. of being a “speakeasy.” If we were, the words “Death & Co.” wouldn't be printed on the sidewalk right in front of us. I think the smaller, high-end cocktail bars are here to stay. Milk and Honey was here a long time ago. My brother talks about their heyday, which was about eight years ago. As long as customers can behave themselves, you are going to see smaller bars.
So you really like the smaller bars?
I love the intimate setting. It's a place where you can come and get a really good drink and be with the person that you're with. That's what [Death & Co.] is all about. It's not about me or any of the bartenders. Bars are about people; it's about them spending time together and having a quality cocktail. That's not a special privilege. That a right. Everyone should be able to go and have a great drink.
What's the largest cash tip you've ever received?
It was a thousand dollars from the Prince of Kuwait.
Color me impressed.
It was a private party at this restaurant I was working at. I had two days to make rent, and I needed $300. The [group] had one check and the guy came up and paid it and he left me a $50 tip on a $27 bill. So, I actually went up to the table and said, “Thanks, I really appreciate this.” And then my boss comes up and says, “Do you realize what you just did? That's the Prince of Kuwait. He's really impressed and wants to talk to you.” So, I rolled up to him and he said, “You're gonna get the biggest tip of your life tonight.” And sure enough....
Favorite drink?
Usually the one in front of me [laughs]. I'll be honest, it is usually the one in front of me but for my mood it’s either a daiquiri or an old-fashioned Manhattan.
What booze you won't drink?
Vodka. Not unless it's slipped by me.
I hear that it's nearly impossible to get a liquor licenses that goes past 2 a.m. now.
If that is going to happen, I'm severely disappointed in it.
Why?
Because that's what makes New York New York. If things would have remained the same, you could go to a bar, have drinks till 4 in the morning and then go get good food at a place like Florent—the 24-hour upscale place rather than just a cheesy diner.
Best cure for a hangover?
Definitely another drink. If I had the ingredients at home, a Ramos Gin Fizz would be wonderful for me to make.
I've never had it. What's in it?
It’s a classic hangover drink: gin, lime, lemon, sugar, cream, egg whites and orange-flower water. It just coats your stomach. The way they used to serve it is, everyone at the bar took a turn shaking it, and you get it to that thick creamy thing.
Who played a better bartender: Tom Cruise or Ted Danson?
I would actually say Coach [played by Nicholas Colasanto] probably would have been my favorite bartender. Coach would have been my guy.
Photo by Sam Horine
