Williamsburg is heating up these days with a string of new openings, including Pies-n-Thighs, Traif, Fatty ‘Cue and gin joint Dram, a cozy, wood-paneled bar that sits on once-sleepy South Fourth Street. Sleepy no more! We sat down with bartender Jessica Gonzalez, who likes her neighborhood, thank you very much. P.S. Hipsters are annoying.
How do you recommend a drink to people who really don’t know what they like?
Sometimes I don’t get it on the first one—at the end of the drink, I get them to tell me what they didn’t like. Then I can get it right. Or I go to the drinks everybody likes, like the Bee’s Knees (rum, honey syrup, lemon juice). It’s sweet and tart and not overly alcoholic-tasting. So, you start off gentle. Then you move them up to the Sazeracs.
What do you think will be the next big spirit trend to take off?
It does seem like tiki is becoming a pretty big trend now. There’s such a wide spectrum, even in tiki drinks—boozier as opposed to lighter, more refreshing drinks. And [made] with every spirit under the sun. I’m actually able to go somewhere and order a daiquiri these days. That’s really awesome. People are starting to think more about having fresher ingredients, just like they do in great restaurants.
Your hood is blowing up these days. What makes it so great?
The south side is a completely different world. It has more flavor than Bedford Avenue on the north side. In a way, it’s grown with me. When I was younger, it was great because there were always three or four bars where you knew everybody. Yes, there are hipsters—everybody complains about the hipsters—but they’re just young people. I can’t stand walking around Park Slope, but I can deal with this. I don’t like walking in somewhere and everyone’s in a blue, collared shirt. I’d much rather see someone with their sunglasses on inside.
As summer approaches, what sort of ingredients are you excited about?
It’s definitely nice to work with seasonal fruits again. The raspberries are going to be coming up soon, and getting a little bit firmer. And we’ll be doing more swizzling. I’ve definitely done some experimentation. Getting to that perfect drink is a learning process. I’m still new at making my own drinks. I have to get a very select group of people excited about my drink before it goes anywhere.
I hear you’re getting married soon. Are you going to have a wedding cocktail, which I hear is all the rage among brides?
I’m getting married in Oaxaca, and Rob Fuentevilla (of Mayahuel) is my bartender. He and Jim Kearns (Rye House) are going to be driving down to help with my very small, intimate wedding. We’re going to drink lots of mezcal and tequila; it’s going to be awesome. I’m not a picky bride. I just want to get my closest and dearest together.
What’s your go-to hangover cure?
Coca-Cola in the can and Chinese food delivery. General Tso’s. Then, a nap.
Photo by Ryan Muir
