For the most part, Italian beer hasn’t gotten much respect in New York City. Local Italian boozing has mostly involved wine, wine and more wine, with watery Old World lagers reserved as chasers for chicken parm subs. But these days, many beerists are turning to Italy as high-quality, flavorful Italian brews are showing up on bar menus at places like Botanica, Blind Tiger and The Eldridge, to name a few. Why? Well, Belgians are old news in NYC and beer geeks are getting bored.
But more likely, the trend is due simply to the fact that Italy now produces really good beer. One of the city’s biggest proponents of Italian beer is Justin Philips, owner of Beer Table, Park Slope’s beer-bar-that-acts-like-a-wine-bar. And just in time for the Feast of San Gennaro—one of New York's oldest celebrations of Italian culture—we spoke with Philips about his take on Italian brew, sausages and the fact that most feasting New York Italians will likely be drinking Coors.
So the Italians make beer besides Peroni?
Yes. It's definitely a new frontier for beer.
Does Italy have a long brewing tradition?
Not to my knowledge, and really, it's a country so dominated by wine culture that their lack of brewing tradition may be an edge for new brewers. They seem to be happily experimenting and trying to create their own new traditions.
What's your favorite Italian beer?
I'd like to say Birrificio Italiano Scires, but that's not true. Though I love it, there are so many great ones right now. Montegioco Bran, Baladin Wayan, Troll Shangrila...
Is Italy the next Belgium on the NYC beer scene?
I sure hope not. I respect so many of the Italian brewers because they aren't trying to emulate any particular styles. I also respect that many of them are small-scale brewers and, as such, their products are still very much handmade. That being said, there's plenty of room for healthy growth and lots of new great Italian beers in the market.
Do Italian beers deserve the same respect as Italian wines?
Absolutely, and really for the same reasons. Of course, many of these are new breweries, so it's not that they come from a deep heritage of brewing, but they do come from a place with a great respect for food and drink.
In my experience with Italian-American events like the Feast, the chance of seeing an Italian specialty beer is slim. Are these newer brews at all part of local Italian culture? Or mostly of interest to beer geeks and the foodie crowd?
For now, it seems like they exist more on the fringe of Italian culture. It's still such a new thing in Italy that it's likely to take a while for them to be absorbed culturally. Looks like it's up to the foodsters...
How many Italian brews does Beer Table offer?
My menu changes every day, but today I have eight on my bottle menu, which has only 25 bottles. I also have a few stashed in the vintage cellar for later and some that haven't made it on the menu yet. I'd also suggest going to the Whole Foods on the Bowery, for sheer selection.
The best part of attending the Feast is the sausage and pepper sandwiches—a good pairing with Italian beer?
Are you kidding?!? Rich, fatty meatiness with grilled peppers and a beer?
Fine, stupid question. How about pairing one of your favorite Italians with sausage and peppers instead?
Le Baladin Wayan. Sooo refreshing, citrusy and herbal. Perfect for washing down a fatty snack.
I hear there's a cannoli-eating contest at this year's celebration. How many Birrificio Italiano Scires would it take before you’d consider entering?
Cannoli-gorging and beer...two things I love that I might not mix in large quantities.
Photo by Sam Horine
