Not quite the hotspot it once was, there are still a couple of ways to have fun in this giant space on the western edge of Chelsea. You can head for the hunting-lodge area, or chill down in the Asian-style red room, complete with hanging lanterns. Otherwise, there's Palm Beach Moderne or "down-home Zen," all in the shadow of the 30-foot tree that shoots up through the middle of the dining room.
The bar is best, with technicolored frozen drinks and a martini list that's hard to beat. The giant outdoor garden is nice in summer, peopled with youngish scenesters watched over by a couple of life-sized metal deer.The menu is amenable to just about anyone: raw bar choices, pastas, salads, steak, and grilled fish choices. Service, though, is slow and confused, and when the bar is busy, the bartenders seem overwhelmed.