Absinthe 2.0

White Star | Traditional Service

The absinthe-heavy Chinatown bar, brainchild of nightlife emperor Sasha Petraske, serves it old-school: straight absinthe (choose from five different varieties) diluted with water and a sugar cube. For the connoisseur, this preparation's perfectly straightforward: enough fiery Green Fairy, water and sucrose to warm the belly and blanket the body in an unmistakable haze. Just remember to sip slowly. As Petraske puts it, "It really messes you up. In the past eight weeks I've seen more glasses spilled and chairs falling than ever before." In other words, this isn't the beverage to choose if you're in the company of someone you'd like to impress.

Verdict: 4 stars (out of 5). High marks for its simplicity and authenticity—part of traditional absinthe culture includes the conversations had while waiting for the water and sugar to dissolve.

White Star (21 Essex St. near Hester St., 212-995-5464)