Elderflower cocktails

Lever House | Imperial

At this futuristic Marc Newson–designed restaurant, it's only fitting that the cocktail list be filled with out-of-this-world ingredients. This complex version of a sake martini is made by muddling sake with micro shiso (a fragrant Japanese herb), then adding yuzu, cucumber and cantaloupe juices, then a pinch of juniper salt (Tibetan rock salt and toasted juniper berries ground together) for depth, and finally a douse of ginger-infused elderflower cordial. Mixologist Rainlove Lampariello favors the cordial over the liqueur because “it provides me with the freedom to flavor a cocktail myself. Call me a purist.” Served in a martini glass and garnished with three pickled cucamelons (what, you don’t grow those in your backyard?), the Imperial actually goes down easy, with flavors blossoming out in rings from melon to ginger spice to herbal to tart. It’s something even locavores can enjoy: All ingredients are bought fresh twice weekly at the greenmarket. (Price: $16)

Verdict: 4 stars
Fruity on the nose but herbal on the palate, this cocktail’s complexity and depth emerge once the familiar cucumber-cantaloupe flavors subside. Though each layer transitions smoothly, it might be too intricate for some tastes.

Lever House (390 Park Ave., 212-888-2700)