(Hard) Liquor-free libations

Terroir | Terroir Loire

Take a gander at Paul Grieco's graffiti- and propaganda-plastered menu binders ("I was a teenage Frankenwine," reads one scribble), and it's clear that the man is mad about wine. His vino insanity clearly extends to his cocktail list, which ranges from Rieslings muddled with blackberries and thyme, to the terrific Terroir Loire. A juicy, fruity Bourgueil cabernet franc is paired with lavender and grapefruit bitters, before being splashed with sparkling Vouvray. The effervescent sparkler looks like liquid rubies, and gives off a lightly herbal bouquet. ($13)

Drinkability: 4 stars. The Terroir Loire is as gorgeous as it is delicious, with a bounty of bubbles and a tart sweetness cut with citrusy grapefruit essence.

Terroir (413 E. 12th St., 646-602-1300)