NYC's bitters boom

The Jake Walk | The Jake Leg

Jake Leg the cocktail is considerably more pleasing than jake leg, the Prohibition-era affliction that caused loss of control in hands and feet due to adulterated Jamaican ginger "medicinal" liquor. And yes, this sienna-hued drink uses a spicy (toxin-free) ginger liquor, but no, it won't give you neural damage.

Mixed with rye and sherry, it tastes like the color brown in the best way—raisiny and woody and rounded out with Fee Brothers' limited-edition Whiskey Barrel-Aged Bitters. This tincture takes the company's version of Angostura and smoothes out much of the sharpness by aging the aromatics in used oak barrels. The cocktail isn't listed on the current menu, but just ask for it and you'll seem in the know. ($12)

The bitter truth: 3 stars. This robust blend is definitely a whiskey-lover's dream, though those with only a passing interest in the spirit may find the oakiness overwhelming.

The Jake Walk (282 Smith St. at Sackett St., 347-599-0294)