NYC's bitters boom

Macao Trading Co. | Drunken Dragon's Milk

Piña colada fans will find a friend in the Drunken Dragon's Milk, a Southeast Asian spin on the creamy, coconutty classic. Served in a stylized opium-den setting, the cocktail complements Macao Trading Co.'s louche vibe (though from my Macao experiences, a few strategically placed Russian hookers and chain-smoking dudes in Member's Only jackets would up the authenticity), and in addition to the coconut cream, the tall icy drink uses Charbay green tea vodka, pandan syrup, Thai basil and a dash of housemade five-spice bitters.

Crafted from ginger, peppercorns, star anise, cinnamon and cloves in a rum base, the bitters "work with the tea and the basil," according to Jason Kosmas, managing partner and bartender, and, like all bitters, "add more dimensions to a drink." The result is herbaceous—creamy yet refreshing—with unmistakably Asian flavors. ($14)

The bitter truth: 3 stars. The filling cocktail, which is almost like drinking a curry, straddles the line between beverage and meal. Think of the money you'll save not ordering bar snacks, though. Just think!

Macao Trading Co. (311 Church St. between Lispenard and Walker Sts., 212-431-8642 )