NYC's bitters boom

Mayahuel | The Slight Detour

Half-hidden Mayahuel manages to employ arches, dark wood rafters and decorative tiles without coming off like a Mexican theme bar. Nicely done! And the Slight Detour is probably more of a hard left turn if you're accustomed to taking your tequila in a blended margarita (though they do make a fine rendition if asked). The almost dainty looking cocktail packs in three liquors: a jalapeno-infused El Jimador blanco tequila, Del Maguey San Luis Del Rio mezcal and Herradura reposado sweetened with a touch of agave nectar.

But they wouldn't be complete without bitters, "the glue that holds the drink together," says bartender Phil Ward. Here, that uniter is Xocolatl Mole Bitters from cult-favorite Bittermens. (Amateur mixologists take note: This product once only available to select bartenders on the down-low has just become commercially available.) The dark and complex drink tastes smoky, spicy, a little vegetal and leaves a delicious tingle on your lips and the back of your throat. ($13)

The bitter truth: 5 stars. The hot, cinnamony, unsweetened chocolate bitters seem made for this drink and are a perfect match with the Mexican spirits. Meant for sipping, this triple threat is about as far from a Cancun spring break as you can get.
 
Mayahuel (304 E. Sixth St. between First and Second Aves., 212-253-5888)