NYC's bitters boom

Rye | Old Fashioned

Williamsburg's Rye might not have a sign, but please don't call it a speakeasy. The imposing carved bar, the focus of the airy and tin-ceilinged room, dates back to 1890—which was "well before the need for a speakeasy," as bartender Sother Teague is quick to point out.

He's equally particular about his ingredients. For his take on the whiskey old fashioned, he's added citrus notes using a blend of Fee Brothers bitters (too strong alone), Regan's orange bitters (too sweet alone) and the traditional Angostura. The drink is made with Old Overholt Rye, demerara sugar, the three bitters and a big fat square of ice. The only garnish in this filigreed tumbler is a strip of lemon peel—no cherry, orange wedge or club soda. Teague has been experimenting with burnt orange and cherry-vanilla bitters, too, so keep your eyes on the menu. ($10)

The bitter truth: 4 stars. Purists might shy away from a classic that's not made by the book, but the subtle orange flavors enhance rather than detract. 

Rye (247 S. First St. between Havemeyer and Roebling Sts., 718-218-8047)