One Drink, Five Ways: Bloody Mary

Paris Commune | Bloody Louis XVI

Why wait till the weekend to have brunch? At this French-American corner bistro in the West Village, brunch is an everyday indulgence. The sunny, affable restaurant serves a.m. crowd-pleasers such as warm gingerbread crowned with real whipped cream, truffled eggs and their famous French toast—imposing slabs of golden, egg-dipped wheat bread topped with in-season berries. Fittingly, these bites are paired with a lengthy roster of bloodies, including the Buggar (gin and star anise) and the show-stopping Louis XVI. House-made bloody mix is paired with Grey Goose vodka, rimmed with herbs de Provence and salt, and garnished with leafy celery, pimento-stuffed olives and a jumbo peeled prawn. Upping the decadence quotient, the Louis comes with toast points topped with caviar and crème fraîche. Lord have mercy. ($35)

Verdict: 3 stars. On sheer aesthetics, and belly-filling capabilities, this scores a resounding five. But the flavors are too muted, and the caviar—and price tag—are overkill.

Paris Commune (99 Bank St. at Greenwich St., 212-929-0509)