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We got some ‘wood, and man we’re loving it: The ‘cue craze gets a second wind with this swanky Gramercy smokehouse helmed by former Hill Country deputy pitmatser “Big Lou” Elrose. His secret? “You gotta be patient,” says Elrose, who smokes his meats for up to 18 hours and keeps his smoker shut tight. “If you’re looking, you’re not cooking,” he laughs. Pit hits include four kinds of ribs (including Memphis-style baby backs), hand-rubbed brisket and Carolina pulled pork—all of which use all-natural, hormone-free meat. Elrose, who’s cooked for Martha Stewart and President Clinton, even throws in a few surprises, like chili with smoked tofu and “Barbeque Bolognese” made with pork brisket and rib tips. Drown the fact that you’re porking out shamelessly with cocktails from Eben Klemm—his green-tea sour with rye and chamomile should do the trick.

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American restaurants, Barbecue restaurants