Anti–Father’s Day bites

Screw the steaks: fresh picks for Pop, from choco brunch to Peruvian dinner

By Cristina Velocci

Special to Metromix
June 2, 2008

Anti–Father’s Day bites
Elizabeth serves up an English 'Sunday roast'

Stumped on where to take Dad for Father’s Day this June 15? In a city with such rich and diverse culinary offerings, you don’t need to settle for another ho-hum steakhouse or predictable barbecue joint. Here are a few creative meals that will impress Dad more than that tie clip you got him.

 

Peruvian plates at Lima’s Taste

Treat Dad’s to a $40 prix fixe of authentic Peruvian fare courtesy of chef Nelida Godfrey, whose traditional dishes are modeled after her Peruvian grandmother’s. The four-course meal kicks off with oven roasted bacon- wrapped shrimp served with a spicy dipping sauce and papa a la huancaina, a piquant pepper cream sauce served over mashed potatoes or with yucca fries. Though a hearty helping of lamb stew will surely fit fatherly appetites, the ceviche mixto of fish, shrimp, squid, baby octopus and mussels is a worthy departure. Cinnamon flan or alfajores sugar cookies filled with dulce de leche polish off the meal, which can be washed down with a complimentary Peruvian beer or pisco sour. (122 Christopher St., 212-242-0010)

 

Haute vegetarian cuisine at Counter

For the true steak-house antithesis, flip Father’s Day on its head by taking Dad to this East Village vegetarian spot that even committed carnivores can appreciate. Using seasonal produce grown in its own rooftop garden, Counter reinterprets classic dishes into meatless versions, such as a grilled romaine with haricot vert and herb pistachio “paté”. Other specials for the day include a pomegranate and fig purse and a seitan roulade with creamed spinach and braised walnut pesto, both of which pair nicely with any of the bar’s 150 organic and biodynamic wines. (105 First Ave., 212-982-5870)

 

Exotic tasting menu at P*ong

Your father always challenged you to try new things, now here’s your chance to return the favor: the adventurous $88 tasting menu at Pichet Ong’s modern West Village spot, with sweet-and-savory plates like foie gras Napoleon (an interesting mix of flavors, including chocolate, pineapple, hazelnut, cognac and chili-pepper jam); a milk-chocolate-and-Sicilian-pistachio terrine of blood orange, sea salt and 24-karat gold; and an organic-lamb-and-spring-pea shepherd’s pie seasoned with Indian spices. (150 W. 10th St., 212-929-0898)

 

Latin brunch at Islero

Who says brunch is reserved for Mother’s Day? This narrow Midtown East restaurant is offering a $14.95 prix-fixe brunch with modern Latin- and Spanish-accented dishes such as a tortilla Espanola egg omelette with chorizo and basquaise peppers, and huevo asado baked eggs with chorizo and Manchego cheese. Dad can watch the Mets or the Yanks play on the flat-screen TV, and he’ll receive a complimentary one-week pass to Equinox Fitness on 54th Street and Second Avenue—presumably to burn off the meal you just devoured. (247 E. 50th St., 212-752-1414)

 

“Father’s Favorite Shirt Cake” at Payard Patisserie & Bistro

Instead of buying Dad yet another boring shirt and tie, get him Francois Payard’s clever take on this predictable present: the limited-run “Father’s Favorite Shirt” cake ($50). Made with sacher biscuit, Rice Krispies, mixed berry mousse and chocolate Manjari mousse and coated with fondant, the cake serves six to eight people and is available in two styles: as a polo shirt or a dress shirt. Orders must be placed in advance for pick-up or delivery in Manhattan on the Friday and Saturday before Father’s Day. (1032 Lexington Ave., 212-717-5252)

 

Sunday roast at Elizabeth

If your father is dead set on steak for his big day, serve it to him—but with a twist. This Nolita newcomer is offering an English “Sunday roast” with rib-eye steak and fried egg, Yorkshire pudding, and potato pancakes during their normal brunch hours. Though Dad will likely enjoy the interior décor reminiscent of a classic English gentlemen’s club, the outdoor garden under a retractable roof is also a solid space to sip “truffled” Bloody Marys made with truffle salt and garnished with horseradish, wax bean and caper berries. (265 Elizabeth St., 212-334-2426)

 

Chocolate brunch at Seppi’s

Dad can satisfy his sweet tooth at the $25 chocolate brunch at this French bistro in the Le Parker Meridien Hotel, which features smoked bacon and eggs over sweet potato rosti with chocolate truffle ravioli, phyllo-wrapped eggs over smoked salmon served with coco brioche, and almond-and-hazelnut chicken breast with Oaxacan mole sauce. Naturally, no chocolate brunch worthy of the title would cut it without hot chocolate and an all-you-can-eat chocolate buffet. (118 W 57th St., 212-708-7444)


Sorrento-inspired menu at Roc

Celebrate Father’s Day Sorrento-style with a special menu of the rustic fare typical of this underrepresented area of Italy. The a la carte brunch menu at Rocco Cadolini’s clubby Italian eatery features eggs served several ways (Benedict, frittata, omelets, with asparagus), while dinner will be heavy on the fish: lobster salad, tuna tartare, black-squid lasagna with fresh seafood, softshell crabs, and salmon carpaccio. (190A Duane St., 212-625-3333)



Photo: Mea Tefka

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