Dining 2007: Top chefs

Anne Burrell helms the kitchen at Centro Vinoteca and, now, Gusto (Credit: Daniel Arnold)

When you get right down to it, it’s all about The Chef, the person who creates the food and runs the kitchen. Sure, the route to culinary success might be faster if a reality show or kitchenware line is involved, but there are still countless cooks working the line every night, earning stars and pleasing clients the old-fashioned way: by making damn good food.

New York City—yes, the center of the universe, thanks—hosts incredible talent and imaginative characters. These were the chefs that made the biggest waves in 2007.

David Chang
Let’s just get this out of the way, shall we? Then we can move on. Ramen mastermind, GQ chef of the year, Esquire fashion model, Rising Star chef, East Village superstar, etc… At the helm of an ever-growing, pork-laden empire, Chang and his business partners recently expanded their properties to three, with Momofuku Ko set to open in January. Whether the Noodle Bar or Ssam Bar, Momofuku is the first place we take out-of-town guests; it’s consistently an eating experience that blows minds. Regardless of all the other excessive accolades, that is the mark of a great chef.

Polo Dobkin
Do reviews count? Do French reviews count? The Michelin Guide published its second New York book, and the list of worthy restaurants was, as expected, met with scoffs and sneers. But a few notable stars were awarded to upstart, unexpected spots like Williamsburg’s Dressler and its young chef, Polo Dobkin. It’s a good day when Michelin inspectors start hanging out in South Williamsburg, and it is a great honor to a chef whose lusty cooking now draws international acclaim.

Gordon Ramsay
Also benefiting from Michelin’s spotlight was the man-of-all-media, Gordon Ramsay. The Scotsman is a real superstar chef—he’s got major restaurants on multiple continents and is a worldwide television star. Plus, he’s got personality. But big opening, Gordon Ramsay at the London, was devoid of that spark, and was met with a resounding "whatever" from most New Yorkers. His two Michelin stars surely redeemed his efforts, and it appears that he’s settling into New York for the long haul.

Pichet Ong
Let’s cut to dessert in the middle of the meal. Several new restaurants—P*ong, Graffiti, Tailor—instantly blurred the line between sweet and savory. Widely recognized as one of the true innovators of the style, Pichet Ong—the the man behind P*ong and the former pastry chef at Spice Market and 66—challenged diners at his West Village restaurant with fanciful combinations of flavors, textures and temperatures. The chef even published a well-received cookbook, “The Sweet Spot,” and plans to open Batch, a bakery and ice cream shop next door to P*ong, in 2008.

Sam Mason
The former wd-50 pastry chef undoubtedly got more press than just about anybody this year. Patching together Tailor throughout 2007, Mason also starred on an indie-rock cooking show called Dinner with the Band, further confirming his role as everyone’s favorite hipster chef. Mason loves to push his diners’ expectations, and it’s a thrill ride to eat his food— but ultimately, it was mixologist Eben Freeman’s cocktails that garnered the rave reviews.

Will Goldfarb
The experimental dessert kingpin might be Will Goldfarb, who, though forced to shut down his groundbreaking Room 4 Dessert, opened up the gourmet kiosk Picnick in Battery Park as well as a counter at the Michel Cluizel chocolate shop at ABC Carpet and Home. Next year, we expect Goldfarb to pop up in several more projects; the man’s got nothing but ideas.

Jody Williams
After her success at Gusto, Keith McNally invited Jody Williams to come on board his Italian bistro, Morandi. One of the highest-profile openings of the year, the middling reviews of the place resulted in the restaurateur accusing the critics of sexism. Lost in the confusion was the fact that Williams is an accomplished Italian chef, and Morandi is doing just fine. (Williams also has her hand in Gottino, a brand-new, West Village wine bar.)

Anne Burrell
Straight down Seventh Avenue, and from the same owners as Gusto, Centro Vinoteca took off with Anne Burrell standing strong behind the stove. Best known as Mario Batali's “Iron Chef” assistant, Burrell finally got her own kitchen this year at the critically acclaimed, fashionable wine bar and restaurant, where waits for tables continue to stretch on. And proving that she’s got the chops to expand her reach, Burrell will also be overseeing the kitchen at Gusto come January, taking over from Amanda Freitag, who heads over to the Harrison.

Michael White
Former Fiamma chef Michael White gained a higher profile this year, ramping things up at top-end Italian destinations L'Impero and Alto. Though his successor at Fiamma, Fabio Trabocchi, recently received three glittering stars from the Times, White earned his own deserved raves at his adopted kitchens. Coming on the heels of Scott Conant’s well-publicized departure, White proved himself to be up to the task of presenting the most resplendent food to appreciative critics and customers at both restaurants.