Jeremy Cesarec, writer
Gravy meatball sliders | The Little Owl
Beef, pork or veal can make for tasty meatballs on their own, but chef Joey Campanaro shows that when combining forces, they're unbeatable. The rich beef, clean veal and earthy pork complement each other perfectly, and the Sunday-night dinner-style tomato gravy pulls the dish together. Throw in a bun and some pungent pecorino and you have a melding of cheeseburger and meatball that puts its competitors to shame. (90 Bedford St., 212-741-4695)
Kentucky hot brown | Bar Americain
There's no denying that roasted turkey, especially in a sandwich, can end up dry. Leave it up to Southern cooking to find an antidote: Serve the sandwich open-faced, then smother with a melted-cheese mornay sauce, top with strips of bacon and crisp it to perfection in the broiler. Bobby Flay's version replaces the traditional sandwich bread with slices of French toast, adding an unneeded, but much appreciated, layer of decadence. (152 W. 52nd St., 212-265-9700)
Duck rillette | The JakeWalk
Rather than my "death row" food, this warming dish is the one I'd request if I'm ever sent to man an Antarctic research station. The chopped concoction is spreadable but still maintains a toothsome integrity. The accompanying cornichon and grainy mustard offer the perfect crisp sourness to cut through the unctuous, rich duck when layered on toast points. (282 Smith St., Carroll Gardens; 347-599-0294)
Cannolo | Salvatore Brooklyn at the Brooklyn Flea
Watching the fresh, Brooklyn-made ricotta filling being piped into its crisp baked shell is art personified. The relatively restrained portion size—about two to three bites—offers the perfect shell-to-filling ratio, making those burrito-size Little Italy monstrosities seem unrefined. Intermittent chocolate chunks give a nice contrast to the meltingly soft ricotta, while the hint of lemon zest is an unexpected but palate-pleasing surprise. (176 Lafayette Ave., Fort Greene)
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Cristina Velocci, writer
Fraise Sauvage | Employees Only
Expertly crafted cocktails and a retro appeal keep this West Village speakeasy perpetually packed, but the delicate Fraise Sauvage—named for the muddled wild strawberries that flirt with fragrant Tahitian vanilla, lemon juice, simple syrup and Plymouth gin—makes it worth braving the testy doormen and (soul) crushing crowds. Polished off with Mumm Joyesse Demi-Sec champagne, the result is a wonderfully frizzy, fruity cocktail. (510 Hudson St., 212-242-3021)
Olive ascolane | Morandi
Keith McNally's Italian trattoria played chef musical chairs this year when Tony Liu replaced Jody Williams last May. One thing that thankfully survived the overhaul: These crispy fried green olives stuffed with minced sausage, a worthy substitute for the ones I savor from a paper cone on trips to Ascoli Piceno, where the recipe originated. The olives' tangy brine complements the meaty flavor of this savory snack, which you can easily pop in your mouth one after another (after another...). (211 Waverly Place., 212-627-7575)
Lobster ravioli | Bistro Benoit
With all due respect to Adam Platt and Frank Bruni, their derisive assessment of this dish makes me question if we even ate the same thing. To the contrary, what I experienced were delicate pasta pillows stuffed with juicy, plump pieces of lobster and floating in a frothy, flavorful shellfish jus. The combination was enough to make my head fizz-and turn me into a newly minted Alain Ducasse devotee. (60 W. 55th St., 646-943-7373I)
Dark chocolate sorbet | Adour
This dessert is the answer to the burning question: Does New York really need two new Ducasse restaurants in the same year—on the same block? Bittersweet dark chocolate sorbet is richly layered with icy espresso granité and vanilla cream, all sitting under a disc-shaped dark chocolate ceiling that cracks at the slightest spoon tap. A dapper server then garnishes the top with an edible gold leaf that crinkles under thick, warm chocolate sauce. Caramelized buttery brioche croutons are sprinkled for added crunch. Who knew opulence could taste so good? (2 E. 55th St., 212-710-2277)
