Fall Dining Preview '08: Brooklyn

Southeast Asian barbecue and bowling (with Blue Ribbon) head to Williamsburg

August 25, 2008

Fall Dining Preview '08: Brooklyn
Buttermilk Channel's fried chicken and waffles

Written and reported by Matt Rodbard, Rebecca Marx, Edith Zimmerman and Ian J. Starck

Chestnut Bar
271 Smith St, at DeGraw St. Carroll Gardens
Chestnut, the Thumbelina-size gourmet American restaurant on Smith Street, expands its bar into the space next door. The new spot-the size of a cozy brownstone living room, seating 25-will serve specialty bites as well as cocktails emphasizing fresh and seasonal fruit, half a dozen beers and a much-expanded wine list. The décor is "salvaged and reworked," with blonde wood floors rescued from an old barn, exposed brick and pressed tin ceilings. Michael Connolly, who runs Chestnut's beverage program, is planning a Thursday night wine flight, where the price of a single glass would get you five tastes of rosé, or whatever's seasonally appropriate. (September)

Buttermilk Channel

524 Court St. at Huntington St., Carroll Gardens
When it comes to boldfaced dining in Carroll Gardens, it's usually an Italian affair (think Frankies 457 and Lucali). But Doug Crowell will likely be getting some ink this fall when he opens this seasonal American bistro located at the old Café Scaramouche space. "I'm happy to take the Frankie's spillover," he says, adding that Caputo's fresh mozzarella and Esposito's Italian sausage will be integrated into a menu honed by Ryan Angulo (Stanton Social, Picholine). Sausages, whole roasted chicken and crispy pork cheek will compliment a rotating list of specials like fried chicken and waffles. The 60-seat space will also serve local beers and an all-American wine list. Fun fact: The name derives from the waterway that separates the Brooklyn waterfront and Governor's Island. (October)

Brooklyn Bowl

61 Wythe Ave. between North 11th and 12th Sts., Williamsburg
The Brooklyn Bowl is a first in many respects: The first rock club working toward an LEED green certification. The first rock club with a 16-lane bowling alley. And, perhaps most important, the first rock club to offer a menu from Blue Ribbon. "We couldn't do this without their fried chicken," quips co-owner Charley Ryan, who adds that the affordable menu will feature classic BR dishes, vegan and vegetarian offerings, and "a fantastic French bread pizza." And contrary to early rumors, the food will be served throughout the club, not just in the lounge next to the stage. "We'll have fixed seating, two bars and a big, open area like a beer garden," Ryan says. "We're at the opposite end of the rainbow from seeing who you can make suffer outside of the velvet rope." (October)

Fatty ‘Cue

91 S. Sixth St. at Berry St., Williamsburg
Finally, some details for this long-rumored partnership between Zak Pelaccio (Fatty Crab) and former Hill Country pitmaster Robbie Richter. (Richter hinted to us last July that he wanted to work with Palaccio in the future). The South Williamsburg location will not serve traditional sauce-meets-pork barbecue, but rather smoked meats paired with astringent and aromatic herbs like dried and fresh chiles, young ginger, and Vietnamese mint, finished with flaming sauces and lacquers. Says an excited Pelaccio, "If you are eating something fatty and you bite into a bitter leaf, it's going to cut the fat, but what it also does is stimulate the appetite." Two antique hickory smokers will be housed in an adjacent driveway, near heated outdoor seating. Pelaccio also plans for a "huge selection of bourbons, great cocktails, great music and lots of meat." (November)

ZuZu Ramen

173 Fourth Ave. at Degraw St.
There's a good amount of buzz surrounding this little mystery, South Brooklyn's first all-ramen restaurant courtesy of Sheep Station's Martine Lafond and Jason Crew. The concept is straightforward: ramen, plus beer and sake. A quick visit only revealed oodles of paint cans, step ladders and construction bulbs, but Lafond tells us she's shooting to open "before the end of the year." (Late fall)

 

Photo by Michael Harlan Turkell

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