One can’t help but wonder if wonder kid David Chang and his Ko concept—a limited-seating spot with an $85 prix-fixe menu that changes daily—is worth all the ruckus. Turns out, it is. Big time.
Flavor, ingredients and technique are the basis for the menu, which starts out subtly and gradually increases in intensity. An amuse of crackly chicharon is a simple starter that delivers a huge punch, and homemade English muffins make you forget who Thomas is.
The nine courses that follow on the current menu (it’ll change daily after a few weeks) start with slivers of poppy-seed-specked silky fluke atop buttermilk and Sriracha, and lead to an amazing kimchi consommé with Malpec oyster, the creamiest pork belly ever and braised cabbage. A much-discussed coddled egg is lovely, as is a seafood dish of scallops and mussels with pickled fennel.
The limelight shines on the next few dishes, though. Frozen foie gras, shaved over a Riesling gelee, melts immediately in your mouth, which is awakened by the gelee’s sweet tang and texture. Short ribs are first braised and then fried for the next dish, which is followed by a silky miso soup. A palate-cleansing pineapple sorbet introduces a comforting fried-apple-pie dessert served with sour-cream ice cream.
If the perfection of the opening menu is any indication of what Chang has in store for diners in the many menus to come, you might wanna start firing up your browser now and make that online reservation. Good luck—you’ll need it.
Booze: A petite, yet thick, journal-style wine list is presented to diners upon being seated, but no one seems interested in opening it. Instead, most opt for the wine pairing suggested by Chang and his staff. At a cost of $50, a selection of earthy whites, Rioja, a few sakes (including one that’s the tangy equivalent of a tropical punch) and a dessert wine will be presented with each course.
Digs: The simply designed space works perfectly. Chefs are on display behind the dining bar, where all of the seats are situated. The slim space leaves little room for movement but allows enough personal space per diner that you won’t feel cramped.
Service: Chefs prepare and present here, all in plain view. Their banter is just as much a part of the dining experience, and their enthusiasm for each dish is evident. Chang steps in to serve also—and to poke fun at his team if a mistake is made, which according to him is very rare.
Vibe: Relaxed and laid-back. The meal is nicely paced, with each of the nine courses spaced perfectly. Chang’s iPod provides additional ambience, and he sure does have interesting taste. Iron Maiden is followed by bluegrass, with Talib Kweli showing up a bit later. For some reason, here, it all works.
Momofuku Ko
163 First Ave .at 10th St.
reservations.momofuku.com
Mon.-Sun. 5:30 p.m.-10:30 p.m.
$85 per person
Photo courtesy of Kathryn Yu / kathrynyu.com
