From deli to Delhi

New York chefs put a global spin on the Passover seder

By Kelly Dobkin

Special to Metromix
April 15, 2008

 
From deli to Delhi
Porgy escabeche with pine nut 'tahini' at Savoy
Don’t let another schlumpy seder of dry brisket and $5 Manechevitz cramp your palate this year. From Indian to French to traditional, restaurants are offering Passover feasts delicious enough to rival your Bubby’s. Choose your cuisine and park your tuchus accordingly.

Savoy
For a seder with a Sephardic slant, chef-owner Peter Hoffman will not only cook your meal but will also lead the services on Sunday, April 20. The menu has a decidedly Mediterranean vibe, with items like fried fava bean dip with olive oil and mint; porgy escabeche with pine nut "tahini"; Kashkaval cheese fritters with date honey; and braised lamb shoulder with tamarind, mint, chiles, chickpea and radish salad. Two seatings are available at either 6 or 6:45 p.m., with the $110 tag covering food and wine pairings. (70 Prince St. at Crosby St. 212-219-8570)

Prime Grill and Solo
“Top Chef” winner (and villain) Hung Huynh of Solo Restaurant is cheffing his first seder ever at sister restaurant Prime Grill this year. His menu, which includes items like seared spiced big-eye tuna served with hearts of palm, pan-roasted sweetbreads with black truffle and carrots, and day-boat halibut with slow-roasted potatoes, will be served up on Saturday, April 19, at 8:30 p.m. and Sunday, April 20, at 8:45. It’s $158 a pop (kids $76) and includes a four-course meal; four glasses of wine; and unlimited coffee, tea and soda. The menu is also available all week at Solo, which is closed for the two nights of Passover. (Prime Grill, 60 E. 49th St. between Park and Madison Aves, 212-692-9292; Solo, 550 Madison Ave. at 55th St., 212-833-7800)

Tabla
Tabla’s Indian spin on the traditional seder meal, “The Unleavened Bread Bar,” features chef Floyd Cardoz’s fusion-enhanced classics like matzoh ball soup with toasted coriander, Goan-spiced brisket and originals like roasted beet salad and chicken tikka. The festivities begin at 7 p.m. on April 20, and the $95 price tag ($50 for kids under 12) includes food and wine. Services will be led by Burt Fendelman. Call for tickets. (11 Madison Ave. at 25th St., 212-889-0667)

Levana
A more traditional Glatt-Kosher seder hits the plates at Levana on the Upper West Side. Here you can opt to lead your own seder or attend a communal one led by a rabbi. Seder is offered both nights (April 19 and 20) beginning at 9 p.m., with a menu that includes traditional matzoh ball soup, whitefish/salmon gefilte fish with endive and horseradish sauce, balsamic glazed Cornish hen, roasted prime rib, and carrot and leek soup. The feast is $115 for adults and $76 for children 12. (141 W. 69th St. between Broadway and Columbus Ave., 212-877-8457)

Compass
Chef Neil Annis has crafted a traditional seder menu with New American influences for the first night of Passover, on Saturday, April 19. All the requisite offerings like gefilte fish, chopped liver and matzoh ball soup will be on the table, along with main courses like seared Atlantic salmon with quinoa and asparagus, and traditional beef brisket with potatoes and shallots. Seating begins at 6 p.m., with interactive seder services at 6:45 led by a rabbi. Dinner starts at 8 p.m. ($110 for adults and $40 for children under 12.) (208 W. 70th Street; between West End and Amsterdam Aves, 212-875-8600)

Capsouto Frères

One of the longest-running seders in the city (20 years and counting) is also for a good cause, at Capsouto Frères in Tribeca. With seders on both nights, services will be led by a cantor, and a $150 donation is required for admittance. Proceeds will be donated to the Joint Distribution Committee, or JDC. The Sephardic-inspired menu features frittatas, artichoke hearts and a brown boiled egg, poached salmon with a lemon vinaigrette, mina (layers of matzah with pureed potatoes, cheese and eggs), and, of course, macaroons for dessert. (451 Washington St. at Watts St., 212-966-4900)

Sammy’s Roumanian Steakhouse

The food is schmaltzy and the décor is old-school, but there’s no seder quite like Sammy’s. The live entertainment and hora sessions are worth the price of admission alone. Choose from two seders on each of the two nights, which feature a 20-minute service, traditional Jewish foods like gefilte fish and matzoh ball soup, and plenty of Jewish wine. Seders take place on April 19 (5 and 8:30 p.m.) and April 20 (4:30 and 7:45 p.m.), and go for $190 per person. (157 Chrystie St. at Delancey St., 212-673-0330)


Photo: Jori Klein

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