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Despite being surrounded by water, New York City has never been a mecca for crab lovers. But just because Gowanus doesn't have the same cachet as the Chesapeake doesn't mean that poor saps stuck in the city this summer need to go crustacean-less.
Spindly crab legs, filler-heavy crab cakes and pan-seared soft shells won't cut it. Sometimes only the hard stuff will do. Thankfully, NYC's got its share of eateries offering the full crab experience, from white-tablecloth restaurants to outer-borough dives. You've got until Labor Day to find out if the thrill of the wooden mallet and embarrassment of the bib is all that's it's cracked up to be.
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Captain Luna's Seafood Bar & Grill
The area surrounding JFK has never been a dining destination, but if you find yourself at the end of the A line you could do worse than Captain Luna's, a tented bar and wooden dock overlooking Howard Beach's Cross Bay. The nearby marina charters fishing-boat excursions, but landlubbers will do fine with a bottle of Bud and a plate of crustaceans caught by professionals.
Smack against the local fire station, the makeshift seafood shack attracts everyone from families to hungry bikers (we're not talking the fixed-gear crowd). Steamed crabs are offered in different sizes (depending on availability, of course) just like in Maryland. A dozen regulars cost $36, while large ones will set you back $4 more.
Avoid shellshock: Get on their mailing list and you'll be the first to know when crabs are fresh off the boat. (158-35 Cross Bay Blvd. near 158th Ave., Howard Beach, Queens; 718-641-7190)
Crab Shanty
Located in a shingle-clad "shack"—its name displayed on a jaunty hillbilly sign—this joint on City Island's main drag holds promise. Just don't be put off by waitresses' warnings that hard shell crabs "are a lot of work." You didn't come all the way to the Bronx to take the easy way out. Ignore all the suckers wolfing down crab-leg combos, tie on your plastic bib, and settle in for the long haul.
For $21.95, you get a dozen blue crabs in a choice of four styles: Baltimore, garlic, steamed and swimming in red sauce, plus soup or salad and a starchy side. A sprinkling of earthy Old Bay accompanied by a baked potato seals the deal.
Avoid shellshock: Despite the shanty's attempts at re-creating the outdoors indoors, they are sorely landlocked. If you crave a water views, grab a plastic cup of beer down the street at Johnny's Reef Restaurant as a nightcap. (361 City Island Ave. near Tier St., Bronx; 718-885-1810)
Back Forty
Better known for its greenmarket ethos (and notable burger), Back Forty might not be the first place you think of clawing your way through a pile of seafood. Even though the closest body of water is the less-than-appetizing East River, chef Peter Hoffman pulls off a convincing facsimile of an Eastern Shore crab boil.
Every Tuesday until Labor Day, $40 is the bill for approximately a dozen Maryland blue crabs authentically strewn atop a newspaper-covered table. The bounty includes hush puppies, a seasonally appropriate veggie (no off-peak corn here) and cobbler. Complement the communal feast with a maritime-themed craft beer like Fisherman's IPA from Massachusetts.
Avoid shellshock: It's essential to call way ahead for reservations—some of the early dinners sold out weeks before. (190 Avenue B at 12th St., 212-388-1990)
READ MORE: CLEMENTE'S, MARA'S HOMEMADE, THE HIDEAWAY, CITY CRAB—>
Photos by Jameson Grey
