Hot Plates

Nios amuses at the Muse Hotel

Emporio
This Roman joint in Nolita is run by the same peeps behind both Aurora restaurants (Soho, Williamsburg) and—slice overload!—it focuses on pizza. Yes. More. Pizza. (see: Tonda, Ignazio's, plus 10 billion other newcomers). Here, authenticity is key, says co-owner Elena Fabiani, who decries a lack of authentic Italian pizza in NYC, even from so-called local Roman pizzerias. "It feels like I'm eating plastic because it's very gummy," she says. So what's the real deal? "Thin crust, very crunchy, and when you pick the slice up in your hands, it stays straight." They've banned Parmesan cheese and stick to buffalo mozzarella instead, which is imported daily from Rome and blankets pizzas like Luganega sausage and mushroom; and grilled eggplant, San Marzano and pesto. Emporio, which translates into "grocery store," also features a mini marketplace (shades of Market Table, circa 2007?) peddling goods like Marcelli cheeses, Setaro pasta and house-cured charcuterie. (231 Mott St. between Prince and Spring Sts., 212-966-1234)

Golosi
In case you haven't been glutton'd out by pizza yet, here's more! And they've even got the perfect name, to boot: "Golosi" means glutton in Italian. Roman-style pizzas are the main draw at this joint near Grand Central, and if size does matter to you, you're in the right place: The pizzas here are sold by the inch, and cost between 99 cents and $1.50 per, with a 3-inch minimum (although we'd argue that nobody would be thrilled with just 3 inches of anything, eh?). The long, oblong pies come in varieties like margherita and soppressata, all made with crust infused with pork fat to give it that extra oomph. (We also hear a hot dog pizza is in the works—a la Reginella, perhaps?) Homemade gelato rounds out the offerings. (125 Park Ave. between 41st and 42nd Sts., 212-922-1169)

Nios
A strong female spirit is the driving force behind this wine-centric small-plates spot (formerly District restaurant) connected to the appropriately named Muse Hotel: Kimpton Hotel Group COO Niki Leondakis runs the show, chef Patricia Williams helms the menu, and master sommelier Emily Wines (yep, that's really her name) oversees the vino. "It's a very American-regional restaurant," says Williams, who puts her own twist on classics like shrimp-and-grits, cheese puffs, and bison-and-bacon meatloaf because, well, "bacon always makes everything better!" she laughs. The global wine program is about 100 bottles deep, and Williams—who regularly hosted a "Girls on Grapes" wine event at the old District—says Sommelier Wines plans to host a "sommelier smackdown" pitting NYC sommeliers against each other. Smell…sip…swirl…smack! (130 W. 46 St. between Sixth and Seventh Aves., 212-485-2999)

Terrazza Toscana
The name says it all at this Hell's Kitchen Italian trattoria, which offers Tuscan grub that you can nosh on at the outdoor terrace dining area upstairs. If dining alfresco ain't your style, there's also a massive 100-seat main dining room, and a 75-seat wine cellar below. (They're still waiting for permits for the terrace and cellar.) A Sardinian chef whips up all-purpose Italian bites like pappardelle with zucchini and eggplant, and calamari stew with Swiss chard, red wine and tomato sauce. (742 Ninth Ave. at 50th St., 212-315-9191)

Patois
Long before Smith Street became a culinary destination, there was one go-to neighborhood spot: Patois. Jim Mamary and Alan Harding’s bistro was beyond pioneering—they beat the pioneers by a solid five years when they opened in 1997, leading to two-hour waits for classics like steak frites and garlic snails. Twelve years later, the duo lost their space—victims of over-saturation and a tanking economy. Rejoice, there’s a savior from an odd spot: Manhattan! A new, 35-seat Patois has opened on a touristy block of Mulberry Street, with virtually the same menu, although Mamary and Harding have now added a daily lunch, which includes a $9.95 prix fixe (burger, duck confit hash, French toast). The dinner menu, also offered as a $19.95 prix-fix, is highlighted by coq au vin, hanger steak and Long Island duck breast. And perk up, you misty-eyed South Brooklynites. A restaurant rep reports there is a Patois in the works, rumored to be across the street from the old location. (177 Mulberry St. at Broome St., 212-925-8157)

Also open:

Vanity Fair honcho (and Waverly Inn overlord) Graydon Carter expands his fiefdom with the newly revamped Monkey Bar, offering yet more opportunities for you to never get a table where you can enjoy chef Elliot Ketley's homey American menu; early reports cite dishes like meatloaf, and chicken paillard. (60 E. 54th St. between Madison and Park Aves., 212-308-2950)

More touch-ups: Bar Blanc has been overhauled as Bar Blanc Bistro, with a stronger focus on bar bites and less focus on Blanc-ness—the resto's overwhelmingly white palette is being tempered with earth-colored touches. (142 W. 10th St. between Greenwich Ave. and Waverly Place, 212-255-2330)

Apparently for Spice, everything is nice: The Thai chainlet has opened a new location in the East Village. (77 E. 10th St. at Fourth Ave., 212-388-9006)

Battery Park deli Izzy & Nat's goes day-to-night with an early-till-late menu of gourmet, homemade bites, from bagels to pastrami Benedict. (311 South End Ave. near Albany St., 212-619-5022)

Avenue A gets a new hookah bar in the form of Kazuza, offering standard edible Middle Eastern fare as well as 20 flavors of tobacco to pack in your hookah pipe, like apple, pineapple, strawberry, melon. (107 Avenue A. at Seventh St.)

Additional reporting by Matt Rodbard. Photo by Sam Horine.