Hot Plates

The week's new openings: Rockin' Raw, Green Canteen, Civetta, Since 1963, Standard Grill

By Alexis L. Loinaz

Metromix
June 17, 2009

Hot Plates
Green day: Williamsburg's Green Canteen

Rockin' Raw
A hubby-and-wife team is betting that raw is indeed rockin' these days with the opening of—deep breath—this vegan raw-food Peruvian–New Orleans joint in Williamsburg. It's the quadruple whammy of niche dining! "There are so many vegetarians in Williamsburg but most of their options are quick—lotsa tofu, lotsa soy, fake this, fake that," explains Tere Fox. (She's from N.O, hubby Luis Salgado is from Peru, and both were holistic health counselors.) Unlike most vegan/raw-food eateries, this one doesn't use any tofu or soy. Instead, the couple is serving witty riffs on familiar dishes, like mushroom ceviche, Louisiana gumbo with veggies and "cauliflower rice," and something called tallarines verdes de la lala—a Peruvian pesto "pasta" made with spaghetti-like strands of zucchini. Come early fall, the couple also plans to offer talks and workshops on stuff like whole foods and sugar alternatives. For now, they're hosting an opening party for the neighborhood on Monday, June 26, at 7 p.m., with free hors d'oeuvres and cocktails. (178 N. Eighth St. between Bedford and Driggs Aves., 718-599-9333)

Green Canteen
Dogmatic Gourmet Sausage top dog Brad Blum has woof'd his way to Williamsburg and opened Green Canteen, whose eco-minded philosophy and locally sourced ingredients make good on its "green" promise (it's NYC's first LEED-certified restaurant). The grub's Mediterranean-American, dishing out flatbreads, hummus bowls, soups and chilis using products from farm collectives like Upstate Farms in Western New York. They're also serving up four sliders, including an appetizing Moulard duck version made with blanched duck skin and bits of bread soaked in brandy, lending a rich and savory flavor. For eco bragging rights, Green Canteen runs on 100 percent wind energy and was built using reclaimed wood, while restored vintage prints of NYC bridges and locales complete the whole recycling theme. (106 N. Sixth St. between Berry and Wythe Ave., 718-387-5900)

Civetta
"When I walk into a space, it pretty much comes to me immediately how I envision the space working," says Sfoglia co-owner Ron Suhanosky of first seeing Civetta's Noho bi-level crib. What he saw: vaulted ceilings, a Mediterranean-accented Italian menu, and loads of antipasti meant for sharing—"almost like Italian tapas." Check, check and check. Suhanosky, along with wife Colleen and two investors, keeps things elegant but homey with over two-dozen antipasti, including a few inspired by Sfoglia like chicken-liver crostini and marinated olives with preserved lemon, along with heftier plates from pasta (potato gnocchi with clams) to meat (homemade lamb sausage). Another Sfoglia holdover: Several dishes are available as half or full servings. And since only one dish tops $30, you'll have some extra moolah for the house cocktails—go for the Notte Civetta, pumped with whiskey cherries, rye and bitters. (98 Kenmare St. at Cleveland Place, 212-274-9898)

Since 1963
The iconic Smith Street corner spot once home to Gravy has switched gears, if not décor, serving up hickory-smoked barbecue—think St. Louis cut ribs, pulled chicken and pork. While most of the meats are available by the pound, eight bucks will get you a sandwich of chopped brisket with sauerkraut, among other options. Owners Jim Mamary and Richard Kraus actually truck over Texas-rubbed meats smoked at their Prospect-Lefferts Gardens spot Whiskey Sunday's, making efficient use of their capacious smoker. Until the full liquor license comes through, your options are cheap bottles of Lone Star or PBR, but Kraus encourages thirsty diners to grab a drink from his neighboring outdoor bar Trout, where a full complement of liquor is always available in balmy weather. (102 Smith St. at Pacific St., 718-237-3141)

The Standard Grill
Nothing standard about this grill: It's located inside Andre Balazs' ultra-splashy Standard Hotel along the High Line, with a steak-meets-seafood menu from Lever House's Dan Silverman. Grilled bites like salmon steak, steak frites and lamb chops mix it up with oysters and Maine lobsters. The challenge: deciding where to enjoy them best—either in the outdoor dining area right the underneath the High Line, or inside the restaurant's white-on-blonde-wood bistro. Standard Grill plans to officialy open on Monday. (848 Washington St. at 13th St., 212-645-4100)


Also open
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Rising out of the ashes of Little Italy throwback Dom's, Acquedolci offers much of the same superette basics, plus impressive homemade pastas like orecchiette broccoli rabe and rigatoni Bolognese. (181 Grand St. between Baxter and Mulberry Sts., 212-219-8911)

Now you can satiate your pho cravings 24/7 at all-hours soup spot Pho 32 in the East Village. (18 St. Marks Place between Second and Third Aves.)

East-meets-West eatery Szechuan Gourmet on 39th St. has spawned a higher-uptown version near Columbus Circle. (244 W. 56th St. between Broadway and Eighth Ave., 212-265-2226)

Tough times call for whiskey and comfort food. Thank you, Cyprus Avenue, for offering cash-strapped Park Slopers booze and elemental offerings like Guinness meat pie, bangers and mash, and Irish curry fries. (52 Fifth Ave. at Bergen St., 718-638-1066)

Izakaya Sui Ren sets up shop in Williamsburg, serving a wide range of yakatori skewers and fried chicken of many stripes. (302 Metropolian Ave. at Roebling St., 718-218-7878)

Union Square Asian standby Republic gets in on the banh mi action with is own sandwich stand located inside the restaurant. (37 Union Square West between 16th and 17th Sts., 212-627-7172)

The Brooklyn Heights Wine Bar is back up and running, this time under new management but with a focus on wine, beer, cocktails and wine-friendly bites. (50 Henry St. at Cranberry St.)

Cafe Grumpy has expanded to Park Slope with a third location of its beloved coffeehouse. Expect the same state-of-the-art Clover espresso machines as well as an unyielding passion for the bean. (383 Seventh Avenue between 11th and 12th Sts.)


Additional reporting by Jeremy Cesarec; photo by Sean Ellingson

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