Hot Plates

The week's new openings: Xie Xie, Permanent Brunch, Tpoutine, Caravaggio, Bistro Le Steak, Tonalli

By Alexis L. Loinaz

Metromix
July 22, 2009

Hot Plates
Upper East Side eatery Bistro Le Steak opens a new location in Le Midtown

Xie Xie
After the economy tanked last fall, Jean-Georges alum Angelo Sosa ditched his plans to open a swanky restaurant and instead decided to embrace a more el-cheapo spirit. Say hello to this Asian sandwich shop in Hell's Kitchen (it's pronounced "shay shay" and is Mandarin for "thank you" ). But don't use the "B" word du jour: banh mi it ain't. The sandwiches aren't strictly Vietnamese, and instead pull from wide range of pan-Asian influences borne of his travels from Hanoi to Hong Kong. The proof: succulent hoagies like tea-smoked chicken with egg salad, cilantro and pickled cabbage, as well as the signature Cha Ca La Vong, a turmeric-tilapia sandwich with dill, cilantro and onion jam. Sosa is also set to open an East Village location in the fall. Pit Xie Xie against Michael Bao Huynh's rapidly expanding banh mi empire Baoguette and we're pumped for a sandwich smackdown! (645A Ninth Ave. at 45th St., 212-265-2975)

Permanent Brunch
Brunch is finally served! Almost a year after it first hit our dining radar, this all-day brunch-a-palooza is firing up the burners for those who MUST have steak and eggs at midnight. It's the newest baby of Lesly Bernard (Tillman's), who's bounced back from the recent shuttering of East Village yakitori joint Mr. Jones with a decidedly American menu bursting with jazzed-up brunch faves: baked eggs with short rib ragu, buttermilk pancakes with caramelized plum, ham-and-cheese French toast with Dijon-maple jus. Wowowee. Throw in an "artisanal bacon bar," with porcine goodies from Texas to Kentucky, and you just might ditch lunch or dinner altogether. Permanent Brunch opens on Sunday. (95 First Ave. between Fifth and Sixth Sts., 212-533-3315)

Tpoutine
As the esteemed South Park folks once intoned, blame Canada! Yep, they're the brains behind this new eatery serving only one thing: poutine, that Canadian staple of fries topped with cheese curds and gravy. The restaurant's name is a mash-up with that of its owner, Montreal native Thierry Pepin, who's confident New Yorkers will lap up this tricked-out version of an American staple. "I call it 'gourmet French fries,'" he says. Gourmet indeedy: The twice-cooked fries come in about 10 varieties both savory ("The Greek,"' with cheddar curds, lamb merguez, feta, gravy) and sweet (sweet potato with spiced cinnamon sugar and Canadian maple syrup). Then there's "The New Burger," topped with mushrooms, onions and Angus beef. Which, we imagine, translates into: "Would like some burger on those fries?" Tpoutine opens on Monday. (168 Ludlow St. between Houston and Stanton Sts., 646-833-7444)

Caravaggio
Brothers Giuseppe and Cosimo Bruno (San Pietro) make a play for three-star dining at this upscale Upper East Side eatery, which Giuseppe describes as "New Italian." Come again? "People say it looks French, I say it looks Italian," he says of their elegantly composed plates. "Italians—we have the best fashion, cars, shoes. So I don't know why we should be quoted as French when we put food on the plate [that's] decorated." Point taken. So what exactly is on the plate? Lots, including roasted chicken sided with foie-gras-and-truffle-stuffed ravioli, gnocchi Sardi with sea urchins and clams, and striped bass in a bouillabaisse broth. In keeping with the place's luxury vibe, the Brunos are exhibiting two paintings and a sculpture by pop artist Donald Baechler. (23 E. 74th St. between Fifth and Madison Aves., 212-288-1004)

Tonalli
The amorphous area where West Harlem meets Washington Heights, in the West 150s, isn't known for a wide range of dining options. Which makes this quaint newcomer a welcome addition. The menu leans Italian, with basic homemade pastas like penne alla vodka and lobster ravioli, while mains include braised lamb chops and grilled cornish hen. Tonalli's just a stone's throw from City College, and the prices are equally student-friendly: Pastas top out at $11, while mains hover around $15 a pop. (3628 Broadway between 149th and 150th Sts., 212-926-0399)

Golosi Gelato
It's easy to forget that pizza-by-the-inch newcomer Golosi, in Grand Central, actually serves gelato, too. No reason to forget, now that the joint has opened a second location…sans pizza! The gelato-only parlor, located in Koreatown, gives the area's bubble-tea shops some competition for the frosty/sweet-tooth crowd. Expect an artisanal focus, with a rotating array of flavors from Ferrero Rocher to "Birthday Cake," along with frozen yogurt (or—ahem, ahem—"frogurt." Their word, not ours.). (325 Fifth Ave. between 32nd and 33rd Sts., 212-685-2059)


Also open:

Upper East Side eatery Bistro Le Steak has opened a Midtown location, with a menu that hews closely to the original: escargot, frog's legs Provençale and five different cuts of beef. (227 E. 56th St. between Second and Third Aves., 212-207-8777)

Curry Hill Indo-Chinese spot Chinese Mirch now has a takeout location on the Upper East Side, in case you can't decide between Indian or Chinese but need to get outta there…fast! (1820 Second Ave. at 94th St., 212-828-6400)

No-frills Boerum Hill lunch counter Rebecca's Latin Cuisine dishes out a range of Mexican and Caribbean fare: tacos, fajitas, tostadas, plus a variety of stews. (218 Hoyt St. between Baltic and Butler Sts., 347-599-2212)

At West Village restaurant and wine bar Organika, organic (natch) Italian and Mediterranean grub is the focus, with a greenmarket-centric menu from chef Melissa Muller. (89 Seventh Ave. at Bleecker St., 212-414-1900)

Don't strain the brain trying to figure out what's served at Upper West Side newcomer East Dumpling House. Its best-named dish? The “Ugly Dumpling”: a bun-like mound stuffed with vermicelli and veggies. (248 W. 106th St. Between West End and Amsterdam Aves., 212-666-2662)

Local Indian chain Baluchi's has opened its bazillionth location! Gazillionth! Quadrillionth! (OK, it's their 13th, and it's on the Upper West Side.) (2286 Broadway between 82nd and 83rd Sts., 212-721-0202)

Tired of Baluchi's? More Indian on the Upper West Side, courtesy of Aangan. (2701 Broadway at 103rd St., 212-280-4100)

Steak Frites transforms into Lucy Browne's, an American eatery that has the culinary ambition somewhere between Walter Foods and Ground Round. (225 Varick St. between Downing St and Seventh Ave., 212-463-7101)

The UES spot that formerly housed downscale Mexican joint Cinco de Mayo is now Osha, a polished Thai restaurant from the team behind the UWS spot Thai Basil. (1711 Second Ave. between 88th and 89th Sts., 212-427-3077)


Photo by Sam Horine

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