Hot Plates

The week's new openings: A Voce Columbus, Le Souk Harem, El Porrón, Stumptown

By Jeremy Cesarec and Alexis L. Loinaz

Metromix
September 10, 2009

Hot Plates
A Voce Columbus: haute-mall cuisine

A Voce Columbus
Since spring 2007, when former Spiaggia chef—and Obama family favorite—Missy Robbins took over kitchen duties from Andrew Carmellini, A Voce Madison has remained a top destination for flashy, though refined, modern Italian cooking. Now with the opening of a 140-seat spinoff in the Time Warner Center, the talented chef gets the digs to match. And rather than featuring a carbon copy of the original menu, the new venue reflects the chef's distinct personality—only five dishes have been carried over. One thing's for sure, though: We would travel to the depths of Staten Island for Robbins's sliced octopus terrine. The Columbus branch also features an antipasti bar with a selection of salumi and verdure; the restaurant will eventually serve weekend brunch. (Time Warner Center, 10 Columbus Circle at Broadway, 212-823-2523)

Gansevoort 69
After a botched incarnation as the short-lived but much-maligned R&L Restaurant, the old Florent space now gets a redo from David Graziano (Bagatelle, Kiss & Fly). It'll be "a fusion between a diner and bisto," he says, adding that he wanted "to stay true to what [Florent Morellet] had created by keeping the price points and the type of food." Which means comfort-y grub like mac 'n' cheese, burgers and a riff on that Florent best-seller, steak frites. Emphasis on the frites: Graziano plans to serve them free to every table, just like bread baskets. As a shout-out to Florent, he's also kept the original steel coolers behind the bar, as well as the iconic R&L sign out front. Note: The restaurant is in a soft-launch until Monday, Sept. 14. (9 Gansevoort St. between 13th and Hudson Sts., 212-691-0069)

Le Souk Harem
The Village gets its own harem—let's keep it wholesome, peeps!—with this spin-off of popular East Village hookah joint Le Souk. And it's a biggie: two floors, 300 seats, belly dancers, DJs and a weatherproof garden. The French-Moroccan menu comes from consulting chef Doug Psaltis (Smith's), featuring bites like eggplant caviar with goat cheese, fava-bean-encrusted lamb chops and beef tongue with chickpea. (510 LaGuardia Pl. at Bleecker St., 212-961-7507)  

El Porrón
The brothers behind Astoria's El Boqueron tapas bar have crossed the river to open a similar restaurant on the UES in the former Via Oreto space. While the menu focuses on tapas and Spanish wine (ten glasses available by the glass), entrees and three types of paella are available as well. Expect crowd pleasers like Spanish veal meatballs and more creative fare like sea scallops with bacon and asparagus sauce. For those looking to experience an authentic Spanish night, ask for your wine to be served from the namesake porrón—a large glass pitcher that allows for communal drinking from a stream of wine. We wouldn't recommend wearing white. Just sayin'. (1123 1st Ave. between 61st and 62nd Sts., 212-207-8349)

Stumptown
If all hotel cafes were this cool, you'd never come home. Stumptown, the revered Portland coffee purveyor that supplies some of the city's most noteworthy coffee spots (Cafe Pedlar, Ninth Street Espresso), finally has a New York flagship to call its own. Lizz Hudson, who managed the shop's installation, explains that the boutique Ace Hotel chain (which also originates in the Northwest) and the Stumptown folks have long been mutual admirers, which makes this pairing a natural fit. While the Red Hook-roasted coffee (French press and espresso only, no drip) is the main attraction, the shop's vintage apothecary feel, polite staff and pastries from Prime Meats and Ceci-Cela elevate it to destination status. There's no seating in the small storefront, but the Ace encourages patrons to sip in the stunning, "Gangs of New York"-style adjoining lobby. (20 W. 29th St. between Broadway and 5th Ave., 212-679-2222)

Also open:

There’s a little (thinly-pounded) slice of Israel opening in Midtown. It’s called Schnitzel Express, located in the former City Burger location, but should not be confused with the German/Austrian pork variety. It’s all chicken here. (1410 Broadway at 39th St., 212-997-7770)
 
Essentially a handsome multipurpose rec room, The Ainsworth caters to a variety of booze- and food-related desires: There's 40 flat-screen TVs for football season, three dining sections separated by wrought-iron gates for eating season, a long bar running under antique mirrors and metallic wallpaper for cocktail season, and an eclectic menu (from pineapple ribs to lobster po'boys) for all seasons. (122 W. 26 St. between Sixth and Seventh Aves., 212-741-0646)

Like Mayahuel before it, except with more space (three floors of it) and a clubbier vibe, Los Feliz keeps the focus on high-end tequila and tacos, with a DJ spinning in the cobblestone-paved and graffiti-covered underground grotto, bartenders pouring margaritas in the ground-level bar room, and waiters serving Mexican fare in the semi-hidden private dining room. (109 Ludlow St. between Rivington and Delancey Sts., 212-228-8383)

Perched above a Qdoba on Sixth Avenue, the minimally marked (on the exterior) but impressively designed (on the interior) Su Casa Bar slings signature Mexican-leaning cocktails, like the crazy-hot El Diablo (habañero peppers, Tabasco and tequila), as well as a light menu of Mexican snacks in its warm and eclectically decorated digs-evocative of a "1960s Mexican speakeasy," according to Steve Salis, one of the bar's principals. (404 Sixth Ave. at W. 8 St., 212-677-6097)

Photo by Sam Horine. Matt Rodbard contributed to this article

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