Hot Plates

The week's new openings: OBAO, MXco, Spot, Lucy's Cantina Royale, Cocoa V, Rye House

By Alexis L. Loinaz

Metromix
November 18, 2009

Hot Plates
Royale flush: Lucy’s Cantina Royale

OBAO
More like O-Wow! Michael Bao Huynh, the Energizer Bunny of restaurateurs, has opened his sixth—sixth!—restaurant in 12 months, with no sign of slowing down (his next one, B Clinton, drops this winter). At OBAO, the accent is on pan-Asian dishes that combines Thai, Malaysian, Filipino and Vietnamese influences, among others. Noodles are the biggies here, available stir-fried (Singapore-style with Chinese sausage and crispy lard), in soups (pig's feet) and as vermicelli (steak with pineapples)—along with barbecued meats and rice. The narrow front room seats about 25 and functions, according to co-owner Ace Watanasuparp, as a kind of noodle bar, while a more spacious dining room at back encourages more leisurely grubbing at two-tops or communal tables. (222 E. 53rd between Second and Third Aves., 212-308-5588)

Spot
Good things happen to Pichet Ong in two's: Two years ago, the renowned pastry chef opened P*ong and—a year later—its sister bakery, Batch, to wide acclaim. Those didn't quite work out (recession's a bitch, eh?), but now he's back with another twofer: Village Tart, his dessert collab with Lesly Bernard that opens in a month, and—first up—as consulting chef at Spot, which is being bankrolled by the same peeps behind OBAO. It's being billed as NYC's first Asian dessert bar, which means pastries, ice cream and "dessert tapas" (as Pichet describes them to us) made with Asian-focused ingredients like miso, jasmine rice and tapioca. Many items display the chef's flair for whimsy, like a yuzu ice cream sandwich made with Oreos, and super-moist green-tea cupcakes filled with apricot preserves. And because this is a Pichet menu, he'll be serving Ovaltine, which is made into ice cream here. It's one of several ice cream flavors that diners can mix with a variety of toppings, from rice crispies to vanilla-poached persimmon. (13 St. Marks Place between Second and Third Aves., 212-677-5670)

MXco

The Upper East Side location of Vynl diner may have gone the way of vinyl—extinct!—but it's now been replaced with this sharp-looking Mexican restaurant from the same owners. At the helm is Crema's Julieta Ballesteros, who consults on a menu that melds both traditional and so-definitely-not-traditional bites. Yes, there are burritos, quesadillas and fajitas, but take a closer look and you'll sniff out some very interesting stuff: tacos made with either Coca-Cola-marinated carnitas or pomegranate-glazed steak; flautas (rolled-and-fried tortillas) stuffed with braised pork and cranberry-jicama salsa. MXco is also all about flights—as in, tastings of guac, housemade fruit purees (spiked or otherwise) and tequilas (there are over three dozen here). Slam down those shot glasses on spiffy tables made with tile sourced directly from Mexico—one of many design/drink elements (including glasses) imported from the Motherland. (1491 Second Ave. at 78th St., 212-249-6080)

Lucy’s Cantina Royale
Penn Station, that cold New Jersey/Long Island commuter depot buried under Madison Square Garden, can be a pretty sad culinary destination; scarfing day-old tube steaks minutes before the 7:21 should never be called dinner. Enter Lucy’s Cantina Royale, a relatively straightforward Mexican bar and grill from the folks behind the very solid Lugo Caffe, located next door. The menu is California-style Mexican, lighter flavors with burst of acid and fruit marinades—no cumin or green chilis in sight. Carnitas is prepared with pineapple and scallions, while charred market fish and lime-cilantro chicken can also be stuffed into a taco or burrito. Mexi-sliders are dressed with chipotle ketchup and chorizo sour cream; the "Border Patrol" hot dog (chili, Monterey Jack cheese and Frito crumbles topping a Hebrew National) is not Mexican at all, but could prove fortuitous after a couple happy hour rounds, to quote the Knicks' legendary TV color man, Walt Clyde Frazier. And on the topic of D'Antoni’s squad, chef Greg Lombardi is hardly banking on the Knicks faithful as customers: “People are just giving their tickets and nobody is coming to the games,” he says. Let’s see if LeBron has anything to say about that. (1 Penn Plaza, 34th St. and Eighth Ave., 212-643-1270)


Also open:

Not to be confused with Williamsburg's Rye restaurant, Rye House is a high-end booze den dedicated to thoughtful cocktails and gourmet plates both large and small. (11 W. 17th St. between Fifth and Sixth Sts., 212-255-7260)

The owner of upscale vegetarian cafe Blossom has gone the wine bar rout with Cocoa V, a showcase of 15  vegan vinos paired with chocolates like bark, truffles, brownies and other dairy-free decadents. Cocoa V opens on Saturday, Nov. 21. (174 Ninth Ave. between 20th and 21st Sts., 212-242-3339)

It's not rocket science to guess what's on the menu at Banh Mi Zon. As for the "Zon" part: It's Vietnamese for "crispy and delicious," and you'll find plenty of crunch provided by the daikon, carrots and baguette of the banh mi, as well as the herbs and greens in the variety of summer rolls. (443 E. Sixth St. between First Ave. and Avenue A, 646-524-6384)

The old Le Gamin Café in the East Village has morphed into Village Bistro East. Similar bistro-ish menu, although a fresh coat of paint, refurbished floors and a new bar area give the space a slightly updated look. (536 E. Fifth St. between Avenue A and B, 212-529-8933)

Build-your-own burgers, burritos, salads and deli sandwiches are the draw at Fresco 57 in Hell's Kitchen. (881 10th Ave. between 57th and 58th Sts., 212-977-6707)

Chinatown noodle house Bo KY has opened a second brand called Grand Bo KY, located—where else?—on Grand Street. (216 Grand St. between Elizabeth and Mott Sts., 212-219-9228)


Meals, deals, specials:

New tavern menu at Commerce: The West Village spot is now serving a kind of Mini-Me version of its dinner and brunch menus from noon to 5 p.m. on Saturdays, with bites like a terrine of duck and foie gras rillettes, and short rib sandwich ($12–$19), along with cheese plates. (50 Commerce St. at Bedford St., 212-524-2301)

Shang happy hour: Not just any happy hour—a dim sum and sushi happy hour! (Beat that, mixed nuts!) From 5 to 8 p.m., Monday through Saturday, they'll be offering half-priced dim sum ($1.50–$13), sushi (about $1.50 per) and rolls ($4–$12.50), along with $6 mixed drinks. (187 Orchard St. between Stanton and Houston Sts., 212-260-7900)

Giano afternoon pairings: After Thanksgiving, the East Village Italian eatery will be offering a $19 pasta-and-wine pairing from 5:30 to 7:30 on weeknights. (126 E. Seventh St. near Avenue A., 212-673-7200)

I Trulli aperitivo: The Murray Hill go-to trattoria is now hosting an aperitivo hour on weekdays from 5:30 to 7 p.m., offering free small plates to anyone who orders from its cocktail or wine menus. (121 E. 27th St. between Park and Lexington Aves., 212-481-7372)


Additional reporting by Matt Rodbard; photo by Sam Horine

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