Hot Plates

The week's new openings: Pulino's, 57 Napoli, Tartinery, Aged, Franklin Cafe Tavola Calda, Brickyard

By Alexis L. Loinaz

Metromix
March 17, 2010

Hot Plates
Pulino's Bar & Pizzeria. Can it deliver on the hype?

Pulino's Bar & Pizzeria
"Honestly, it's ridiculous," says Nate Appleman about the feverish hype (breaking news: Pulino's bathroom revealed!) surrounding this Bowery pizzeria, a blockbuster mash-up between the James Beard–winning chef and super-restaurateur Keith McNally.  Appleman, whose love affair with Italy began with a six-month stint in Florence in 1999, will be tossing over a dozen thin-crust, wood-fired pies—not Neapolitan per se, but pies partly inspired by "my [Midwest] childhood, going to the local pizza place or the bowling alley." His faves: housemade salami with tomato, mozza and chiles; and a crisp porchetta with fennel, tomato and red onion. Picking up on a meaty theme? Appleman, an avowed carnivore, breaks down his own livestock in-house, sourced from Missouri's Newman Farm (non-pizza entrees include a pork, beef and lamb sausage). He also plans to use Pulino's ground-meat surplus for burgers: thin-patty hunks cooked on the griddle with onions and served with white cheddar and mustard. Only 30 burgers will be offered, starting at midnight. Which is probably the only reservation time you'll be able to get. (Serving breakfast and lunch for now; 282 Bowery at E. Houston St., 212-226-1966)

57 Napoli Pizza e Vino

Pizza overload! Not to be outdone by the Pulino's juggernaut, Midtown flings its own hunk o' salami with the opening of this Neapolitan slice joint. Behind the oven: Salvatore Olivella, an alum of L'Asso, whose pies here are made with homemade, hand-pulled mozzarella. Aside from the usual suspects (margherita, soppressata, five cheese), he's also slicing up versions like gorgonzola-pear-walnut, and potato with ricotta—both made without tomatoes. The pies are available as a 12-inch "Round" ($12–$15) or an 18-inch "Metro" (aka oblong-ish, $20–$22). Antipasti, salads and pastas fill out the menu, as well as a selection of about 10 wines. (120 E. 57th St. between Park and Lexington Aves., 212-750-4586)

Tartinery
We're guessing the owners of this Nolita spot didn't struggle too hard to find a name for it. The place serves up French tartines, a type of open-face sandwich made with sourdough and heaped with all sorts of goodies: foie gras and fig; "ratatouille"; crispy duck with plum sauce. Not chump change, these 'wiches: They go from $8 to $19. The trump card, though, is the sandwiches' esteemed provenance. They're made with bread imported daily from renowned French bakery Poilâne—think of it as France's version of bread royalty. Or, as Marie Antoinette might say: Let them eat bread! (209 Mulberry St. at Spring St., 212-300-5838)

Aged
After week of delays, the Manhattan location of Aged, the Queens-based chophouse, has finally opened on the Upper West Side, taking over the old Bloomingdale Road space. Not a simple carbon-copy, though: Unlike Mama Aged, which serves straightforward steakhouse fare, the two-level UWS location veers more Mediterranean/Northern Italian. So in addition to rib eye and sirloin steaks, you can also get grilled branzino (Greek-style, with extra virgin olive oil and lemon juice), fusilli arrabiatta, and braised lamb shoulder. Hopefully this joint will, ahem, age better than Bloomingdale Road, which went kaput after just four months. (2398 Broadway at 88th St., 212-712-0700)


Also open:

Baked pasta and grandma's meatballs hog the table a Tribeca trattoria Franklin Cafe Tavola Calda. (222 W. Broadway at White St., 212-625-8833)

Screw cupcakes: Honey cakes—those hockey puck-size treats—are the stars at Bee Desserts, and come in flavors like almond, marshmallow and liqueur. (94 Greenwich Ave. between Jane St. and W. 12th St., 212-366-6110)

Underwhelming Hell's Kitchen spot Lasagna has now become a gastropub called Brickyard. Can burgers and beer pack the large back dining room better than pasta? (785 Ninth Ave. at 52nd St.)

Unlikely inspiration for a bar's name: Weezer's best album! Pinkerton is now also the name of a Williamsburg wine-and-small-plates bar. (263 N. Sixth St. at Havemeyer St., 718-782-7171)

Italian doughnuts are the belt-busting specialty at Upper West Side sweets shop Bomboloni. (187 Columbus Ave. between 68th and 69th Sts., 212-877-3080)

Wine bar Drunken Horse gallops into Chelsea with a 50-bottle global wine list, plus munchies like charcuterie and cheese. (225 10th Ave. between 23rd St. and 24th Sts., 212-604-0505)

A cause for joy: Prospect-Lefferts Gardens Indian restaurant Joy has spun off sister curry house Gandhi –with cheaper prices! (2032 Bedford Ave. between Parkside and Clarkson Aves., 718-282-7012)


Meals, deals, specials:

Marfa Southwest Flights: Every Thursday, Marfa is offering a tequila-and-barbecue pairing featuring its house-infused tequilas. $25 for a three-course pairing, $35 for a five-course one (also available without grub, for a lower cost.) (101 E. Second St. between First Ave. and Ave. A., 212-673-8908)

Taco-Eating Contest at Barrio: Arrive before 7 p.m., sign up for this corn-shelled race, and chow away. It's $24.95 to munch, but the top glutton wins a $100 gift certificate. (210 Seventh Ave. between Second and Third Sts., Park Slope; 718-965-4000)

Brooklyn Beefsteak: On Saturday, it's all-you-can-eat beef…eaten with your hands! Nope, no forks allowed at this feeding frenzy at the Bell House, which will also feature free pitchers of McSorley’s Light and Dark ales. $45 per person. (149 Seventh St. between Second and Third Aves., Gowanus; 718-643-6510)


Photo by Sam Horine

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