Fill in the Blanc: modern Euro cuisine at Bar Blanc in the West Village
(Credit: Kyle Erin Schmitz)
Simplicity seems to be the mantra at this modern European newcomer in the West Village, whose white-on-white aesthetic belies its own pared-down approach to food. “I’m very much influenced by the simplicity of Japanese cooking,” says chef Cesar Ramirez, one of three David Bouley vets who’ve joined forces to open the place. “But behind the simplicity, there’s a lot of technique. It’s time-consuming— there’s a lot of work behind it.” The French-based menu includes starters like slow-roasted rabbit and sweetbread salad, and—in a nod to Ramirez’s love of Italian food—braised lamb shoulder lasagna with porcini. (Ramirez cops to being a fan of new Fiamma chef Fabio Trabocchi—“I’ve eaten there twice!” he says.) David Bouley’s predilection for Asian flavor seems to have rubbed off on Ramirez, who studied at the renowned Japanese culinary institute Tsuji and who infuses his dishes at Bar Blanc with decidedly Asian flourishes, such as a star-anise-seasoned confit of baby pig with chanterelles and Brussels sprouts, and tuna sashimi with marinated elf mushrooms, black onion miso and black truffle dressing.142 W. 10th St. between Greenwich Ave. and Waverly Place, 212-255-2330
2nd Ave Deli
You can force the deli off Second Avenue, but you can’t keep the deli out of New York. Now located in a slightly smaller but remarkably similar-looking new space on 33rd Street, the newly reopened 2nd Ave Deli serves up all the same familiar kosher Jewish specialties—kreplach, pastrami sandwiches (its best-seller) and the “Instant Heart Attack” (a sandwich made of two latkes and a choice of corned beef, pastrami, turkey or salami). There are a few small changes: a larger delicatessen case to encourage takeout, a liquor license inherited from the previous owners, and a sample serving of gribenes (crispy fried chicken skin and onions) for every sit-down customer. “I want people to branch out and be adventurous,” says Jeremy Lebewohl, the new proprietor and nephew of the deli’s founder Abe Lebewohl. “Most people wouldn’t order gribenes, but now that they have it on us, they might have the courage to order other [unfamiliar] things too.” Other additions the menu include a full selection of smoked fish and classic deli salads. And for the time being, they’ll be open 24/7, which may continue, depending on demand. 162 E. 33rd St. between Lexington and Third Aves., 212-689-9000
Felice Wine Bar
Because this wouldn’t be Manhattan without a new wine bar opening, oh, every three minutes, we bring you the newest flavor of the week, which decamps on the Upper East Side. Over 15 wines are available by the glass—spanning red, white, rose and dessert—and the menu comes courtesy of Sant Ambroeus chef Simone Parisotto. Hopefully his focaccias, rissotti and pastas (think penne with tomato sauce and eggplant) should hold you over until the next wine bar opens, which—bing!—will probably happen by the time you’ve finished reading this. 1166 First Ave. at 64th St., 212-593-2223
Giano
Here’s one instance where it’s good to be two-faced: This East Village Italian spot named after the Roman god with two faces is an exercise in duality, with a schizo space that melds modern décor (sleek red-and-white bar area up front) and an old-world vibe (rustic wood tables, exposed brick toward the back). It’s a concept that carries over to the menu as well, which fuses traditional and contemporary with dishes like lasagna with saffron rice and prosciutto, and risotto with pear radicchio and Taleggio cheese. A plasma TV serves as a virtual “chalkboard,” highlighting wines available by the glass. “You’re always presented with two faces,” says co-owner Pablo Rossi. “One is watching the past and the [other], the future. We want to present the traditional with the new.” 126 E. Seventh St. at Ave. A., 212-673-7200
Marco Polo Take Out
If you’ve ever walked past Marco Polo Ristorante, the Venetian-style supper club on Court Street in Carroll Gardens, it’s hard not to notice the sign outside advertising valet parking. So people actually drive to dinner in brownstone Brooklyn? Apparently. But as is the case with Italian social clubs, intimidation ($26 osso bucco; broken joints for ordering the wrong way; a combination of both) has kept many from entering Macro Polo for a meal. Now is your chance, sorta, with a new takeout branch next door featuring brick-oven pizza, calzones and select menu items like veal Marsala and eggplant rollatini. Owner Joseph Chirico built the oven brick-by-brick with help from a Napoli mason (flown in for the task), and the results justify the labor. Paper-thin crust, charred in the 1,000-degree hearth, is topped with fresh mozzarella and offbeat ingredients like quail eggs and spicy anduja sausage. Each “individual” pie runs between $9 and $13, bargain-basement pricing compared to nearby Lucali. According to Chiricio, the nabe’s standing brick-oven savant Mark Iacono has stopped by a couple times for a slice…and approved. 347 Court St. between President and Union Sts. 718-243-1000
Additional reporting by Matt Rodbard and Jacqui Gal
