Hot Plates

Bite-size dish on new restaurants: Beer Table, Merkato 55, Commerce, Islero, Bar Tano

By Alexis L. Loinaz

Metromix
February 6, 2008

Hot Plates
Booze and bites at Beer Table in Park Slope
Beer Table
The forecast is looking sudsy in Park Slope with the opening of this beer-and-bites station: a sliver of a spot filled with candlelight and a trio of communal tables. The drinks menu—three drafts and a bottle list of 25—rotates daily and includes selections from Italy, Japan and Denmark. It’s the first joint from co-owner Justin Philips, a former beer importer who has traveled extensively to visit the breweries whose beer he serves. “I saw a real value in knowing the producers,” he says. “It makes it feel a lot more sincere.” Philips also chose the suds based on “historical value,” such as a Belgian Cuvee Angelique that’s a re-creation of a recipe made in 1904. Soak everything with up with nibbles like cheese and charcuterie, plus Philips’ own homemade roasted sausage. 427B Seventh Ave. between 14th and 15th Sts., Park Slope, 718-965-1196

Merkato 55
After conquering Scandinavian cuisine in Midtown, Aquavit’s Marcus Samuelsson brings African cuisine downtown with Merkato, an homage to his roots in Ethiopia, where he was born. The restaurant’s name alludes to the open-air market in Ethiopia’s capital, and Samuelsson drew inspiration for Merkato while writing his award-winning book “The Soul of a New Cuisine.” Here, the chef collaborates with executive chef Andrea Bergquist on a pan-African menu that draws on tradition, with dishes like Berbere-crusted rack of lamb and chicken doro wat with injera bread. The duo also put their own spin on tapas with a small-bites menu of flatbreads and chutney. Woodsy textures, handcrafted accents and colorful prints—think “Out of Africa” as hallucinated by the Meatpacking District—complete the earthy vibe. 55 Gansevoort St. between Greenwich and Washington Sts., 212-255-8555

Commerce
Turns out Patricia Arquette ain’t the only good medium around these days: This new West Village spot does a bang-up job of channeling the ghost of beloved former occupant Grange Hall, down to the Art Deco bar and old-world flourishes. Give props to owner Tony Zazula (Montrachet), who has completely restored the historic space with murals, booths made from English chestnut, and a Brunswick bar from the ‘40s. He’s tapped fellow Montrachet vet Harold Moore to oversee a contemporary American menu laced with global touches, with dishes like warm oysters in champagne, roasted sweet potato tortellini, and rare beef tataki with ginger soy and shiso. Commerce opens on Feb. 7, and diners get 20 percent off until Feb. 12. 50 Commerce St. at Bedford St., 212-524-2301

Islero
When you’re trying to charge into NYC’s crowded food scene, it helps to be named after an infamous bull that mauled a legendary Spanish matador. Okaaaay, not really what you wanted to read before dinner. How about this: The chef at this elegant Midtown spot is a Boulud alum, and while the resto’s name gives props to the aforementioned bull, the Spanish theme plays out nicely on a menu that riffs on Spanish faves (potato-and-chorizo croquettas, lamb chop with sweet-rice torta), with a few creative twists (plantains with sea-salt caramel and ciltantro crème fraiche). Co-owner David Chiong tells us that he and partner Chris Bianchi (Crave Ceviche Bar) were going for “something relaxed, with a very clean look,” with subdued interiors of leather, wood and marble. 247 E. 50th St. between Second and Third Aves., 212-752-1414

Bar Tano
The folks behind Park Slope’s Bar Toto have branched out with this Italian small-plates spot in the barren nether zone along Third Avenue, which is exactly where they wanted it: “The area needed something like this,” says co-owner Peter Sclafani, “and we’re an anchor for other restaurants that are already looking in this area.” Sclafani describes Tano as “more of a grown up version [of Bar Toto],” with a turn-of-the-century vibe imparted by tin walls and a dramatic zinc bar. About 30 Italian wines are available by the glass, complemented by a small-plates menu of homemade pork meatballs, gnocchi and grilled pizzas. 457 Third Ave at Ninth St., Park Slope, 718-499-3400

Photo by Mea Tefka




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