The joy of Essex: South Gate jazzes up Central Park South's Essex House
After getting its own food court (Time Warner Center), farmstead (BLT Market) and rich-guy feeding trough (Grayz), the Central Park South area continues its recent luxe food boom with South Gate, a market-driven modern American restaurant at the tony Essex House. “There’s a new energy in this area,” chef Kerry Heffernan tells us, alluding to CPS’ resurgent culinary cache. “’Downtown uptown’ is the right way of putting it.” Heffernan, who earned his stripes at Eleven Madison Park, presents a judiciously edited menu with appetizers like buttercup flan with Brussels sprouts, mushrooms and prosciutto, plus entrees that go from hearty (pork belly with Chinese leeks and kohlrabi purée) to savory (sautéed red snapper with celery fondue). Natch, the sleek digs match the upscale tenor, with sandy tones and a strong geometric verve (mirrored tiles, angular patterns) making way for a view of the park. 154 Central Park South between Sixth and Seventh Aves., 212-484-5120
Mia Dona
Fans of the prematurely shuttered, two-star sensation Dona can come out of mourning, now that dynamic duo Michael Psilakis and Donatella Arpaia have dusted off their Southern Euro recipes at this haute Italian spot in Midtown East. Yep, Psilakis’ beloved ricotta- and-truffle-butter gnudi is back for Act Two, along with freshies like braised beef ribs with smoked-mozzarella polenta, and crispy rabbit with fingerling chips and cucumber remoulade. To complete the déjà vu, the duo tapped Dona’s original designer, who has conjured a soothing space of blonde wood and white brick while referencing elements from the old location, from the zebra-print carpet to the Fornasetti plates, which now line the walls of Mia Dona. Wait for it—we’re sensing a home run. 206 E. 58th St. between Second and Third Aves., 212-750-8170
Tre Dici Steak
Tre Dici is movin’ on up…literally. The colorful North Chelsea Italian eatery has taken over the space directly above it and opened a steak house–cum–speakeasy splashed with dramatic burgundy hues, ornate wallpaper and lush fabrics. Chef Guiseppe Fannelli, who logged time at Felidia and Rao’s, describes his food as “evolved Italian—we evolved around the clientele,” a mix of folks from nearby FIT and neighborhoodies from around the corner. Here, he liberally interprets the “steak house” moniker with munchies like Parmigiano-crusted strip steak and Kobe beef ravioli. “It’s kind of an ego drive,” he laughs, referring to the latter dish. “We all wanna use a high-end products and get away with it.” 128 W. 26th St. between Sixth and Seventh Aves., 212-243-2085
Madaleine Mae
Lots of comfort and joy on the Upper West Side these days: On the heels of the debut of comfort-food spot Community Food & Juice comes this Southern-themed joint from Barbuto wunderkind Jonathan Waxman. Cover your ears: Everything screams “mom-and-pop,” from the buttermilk pancakes to the cinnamon French toast to the pan-roasted crab cake. But hey, this is Waxman—has anyone made a better carbonara?—and he keeps the menu interesting with punches likes rum-laced mashed sweet potatoes, “country” paella with Andouille sausage, and a johnnycake with smoked salmon and crème fraîche. 461 Columbus Ave. at 82nd St., 212-496-3000
La Zarza
What do you get when you team up Spanish and Argentine restaurateurs? Um, Spanish and Argentinean food? Score one for no-brainers at this new East Village tavern. File under “Argentinean”: Patagonian rib eye with two homemade chimichurris. File under “Spanish”: jamon serrano and cheese. File under “Hmmmm”: almond-stuffed dates wrapped with Argentinean bacon and served with jicama. Chalk it up to chef Jorge Rodriguez, who delivers a few surprises that draw on Middle Eastern and African influences. Expect a mellow club vibe at this brown-on-brown, candlelit space: Kiss & Fly’s Corey Lane is a promotional partner, and the joint has its own DJ booth. 166 First Ave. at 10th St., 212-477-1111
