Hot Plates

Bite-size dish on new restaurants: Artichoke, bar Q, Bar Baresco, The New French and more

By Alexis L. Loinaz

Metromix
April 9, 2008

Hot Plates
Artichoke gets mobbed by an instant following
Artichoke
You know you’ve hit the big time when David Chang starts sending over Berkshire pork buns: That seems to be the lucky fate of Francis Garcia, whose hysterically buzzed-about new slice joint counts the Momofuku guru as a frequent visitor. “[David] asked me how I make my cauliflower fritters,” Garcia tells us. “He said, ‘Take my cellphone number if you ever run out of product or if you need anything.’” Garcia, who co-owns the place with cousin Sal Basille (both got their start manning the ovens at a family-owned pizza shop on Staten Island), serves up a sublime artichoke-and-spinach pie (made with heavy cream, butter and white wine) and a four-cheese square Sicilian pizza, among others. The quirky, closet-size space (the hammer imbedded in the wall belonged to his late grandfather, a restaurateur), now has a Magnolia Bakery-esque line snaking out the door. There is, however, one food celeb Garcia is still waiting to swing by: “I have a thing for Rachael Ray,” he says. “I’ve been watching her for a while on the Food Network—I get a kick out of her. I never sell a whole artichoke pie. I always save one slice in case Rachael Ray walks through the door.” Rachael, it’s waiting for ya. (328 E. 14th St. between First and Second Aves., 212-228-2004)

bar Q
“I was thinking that there’s a strong correlation between Southern cuisine and Chinese cuisine, between the pork and the greens,” says Anita Lo about her new Asian barbecue spot in the Village. “It seemed to makes sense to me—I wanted to do it for years.” Lo (Anissa, Rickshaw) paints a wide pan-Asian swath with her ingredients—shiso, kimchee, lemongrass—and exhibits them in dishes like Seoul-style shortribs with scallion pancakes, grilled tuna with yuzu, and roasted pork belly with kimchee. “You wanna have a different flavor spectrum,” she says. “It’s easier when you’re working with a wide range [of flavors.]” A raw bar (shellfish, sashimi) and trippy cocktails (“Bubble Tea on the Rocks”) round out the selections. The pristine space—white surfaces, blonde wood—was designed by the same starchitect behind Momofuku and Kyotofu, and includes a gorgeous glass atrium at back and outdoor seating come summertime. “Summer barbecue” just got a whole new meaning. (308-310 Bleecker St. at Grove St., 212-206-7817)

Bar Baresco

New York probably has more Italian wine bars now than Italy itself: Just when you thought it was safe to come out, along comes this Chelsea enoteca, which invades the old Sette space. It’s the latest brainchild from co-owner Enrico Malta, whose booming roster of restaurants includes Bocca di Bacco, Puttanesca and the recently opened Gallo Nero. Southern Italy is the focus here, with over 300 bottles in its wine program—about 40 available by the glass—including a $740 Barolo Gaya from Piedmont, which comes dense with licorice and tobacco notes. A selection of bar bites runs from small (pan-seared sardines) to not-so-small (braised baby octopus with spicy sherry tomato sauce) from former Cipriani Dolci chef Roberto Lopez. (191 Seventh Ave. at 21st St., 212-675-5935)

The New French
Chef-partner Livio Velardo, formerly of Tabla and Provence, mines a variety of influences—French, Vietnamese, American—to pull together an eclectic menu at this cozy West Village restaurant: A selection of pho (chicken, shredded brisket) shares menu space with dishes like braised lamb with couscous, and roasted chicken with parnisp puree, oyster mushrooms and baby bok choy. The spot’s name tips its hat to a now-shuttered Minneapolis restaurant of the same name, which was known for its artistic and bohemian spirit. The “new” New French seems to have taken that spirit to heart: The restaurant features a mural by famed artist and illustrator Maira Kalman. (522 Hudson St. at 10th St. 212-807-7357)


Also open:

The logo of new Williamsburg pie joint Pizza Air pokes fun at Nike Air’s iconic image. The menu stays firmly grounded in, well, pizzas. (227 Roebling St, between S. Second and Third Sts., 718-782-7900)

Brothers Jason and Joe Denton (’ino, ’inoteca, Lupa) unveil Bar Milano, their northern Italian spot in Gramercy. (323 Third Ave. at 24th St., 212-683-3035)

Long Island mainstay George Martin brings its American bistro fare to a new outpost in Queens. (42-15 235th St. right off Douglaston Parkway, 718-224-2898)

Czech fare and booze make it worth the trip to Eurotrip in Park Slope. (667 Fifth Ave. between 19th and 20th Sts., 718-285-9425)

Murray Hill newcomer Moco Global Dining delivers a quasi-Japanese menu at the old Maxie space. (516 Third Ave. at 34th St., 212-685-3663)


Recently closed:

La Tour (Upper East Side)
Cheyenne Diner (Midtown West)
Cellar 34 (Astoria)


Photo: Elizabeth Weinberg

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