JoeDoe
The name pretty much sums up who’s in charge at this East Village American eatery from former Savoy sous-chef Joe Dobias, who describes his menu as “seasonal but not insanely local—a lot of local stuff may not have as light a carbon footprint as something from California.” Dobias’ approach, which is more ingredient-driven than source-driven, reveals eclectic influences—Jewish, Latin, Eastern European—and includes items like mushroom streusel and chopped liver truffles with challah bread. Don’t expect specials, though, on the rotating menu: “Specials are not specials to me,” he quips. “They’re leftovers.” What you can expect: a homey, pub-ish atmosphere laced with antiques galore, such as 200-year-old church pews and Hoosier cabinets that date back to 1918. (45 E. First St. between First and Second Aves., 212-780-0262)
Luxee
Healthy...vegetarian-friendly...designer desserts...with a strong Japanese connection...and we’re not talking about Kyotofu. Luxee, a LES newcomer run by an all-Japanese crew, is giving the Hell’s Kitchen dessert maven a run for its tofu cheesecake with a tight selection of sweet and savory bites. (The restaurant is run by the same folks behind Tokyo culinary school L'ecole Vantan.) On its summer dessert menu: goodies like camembert cheesecake with apple-cider gelée, and a vegan chocolate cake with avocado mousse. Those looking for skip the sweets altogether can go for white-sesame tofu with greens, tomato granité and cucumber salad, served up in the restaurant’s narrow, café-style space. Keep an eye out for their pride and joy: a giant candy sculpture made entirely out of sugar, which they plan to display right up front. Luxee opens on Friday. (6 Clinton St. at Houston St., 212-375-1796)
La Superior
After doing a tour of duty of the city’s haute Mexican joints (Dos Caminos, Rosa Mexicano, Papatzul), Mexico City native Felipe Mendez has dropped anchor in Williamsburg with this “strictly Mexico” restaurant. “Everyone else has the same thing—mole, fajitas—which is not really Mexican,” he says. His trump cards: esquites (espazote-flavored roasted corn), tacos de rajas (with roasted poblano pepper, Mexican cream and onions) and salpicon (shredded flank steak). Save for the fish and meat, Mendez imports majority of his ingredients from Mexico, and the restaurant makes its own aguas frescas beverages, which come in varieties like watermelon, cantaloupe and prickly pear, depending on the season. (295 Berry St. between S. Second and Third Sts., 718-388-5988)
Closed:
Danube (West Village)
Coco Pazzo (Upper East Side)
Kyma (Hell’s Kitchen)
Leonardo Da Vinci (Upper East Side)
Le Biarritz (Columbus Circle)
Pintxos (Soho)
Brooklyn BarBQ (Park Slope)
Photo by Sam Horine
