Hot Plates

Bite-size dish on new restaurants: Apiary, Vintage Irving, Allegretti, Pita Joe

By Alexis L. Loinaz

Metromix
August 13, 2008

Hot Plates
Apiary takes flight in the East Village

Apiary
Name your restaurant after a place where bees are kept andsureyou're courting some buzz (and pun overkill). But this new New American spot in the East Village has more than a curious moniker to back its bid: It's helmed by Bobby Flay vet Neil Manacle (Bolo, Mesa Grill), whose self-professed obsession with honey has earned him a rep for balancing sweet and sour, spicy and acidic. Here, the Brooklyn native has crafted a menu with strong Mediterranean, Latin and North African influences, with dishes like Moroccan spiced chicken with mint-and-apricot couscous, and hanger steak with chimichurri. "I lived off Atlantic Avenue," he tells us, "and these are the authentic influences of the food that I loved to eat." Oddly, Apiary is a joint partnership with furniture line Ligne Roset, responsible for the restaurant's sleek, mod-ish look. There's a "Queen Bee" pun in here somewhere, but we'll spare you from it. (60 Third Ave. between 10th and 11th Sts., 212-254-0888)

Vintage Irving

After unleashing scores of hangovers at suds-o-ramas like Village Pourhouse and Proof, bar vet Michael Sinensky has finally decided, he says, to "mature in both my business and personal life." His proof: this oh-so-grown-up wine-and-small plates spot right off Union Square, with eclectic bites (from former Patria chef Jason Bunin) that range from homemade potato gnocchi to foie gras in an upside-down apple tart. Aside from a 30-bottle wine list, Sinensky wanted to go with "more mom-and-pop brands" from smaller distilleriesthink Zyr vodka and Beleza Pura rum. A tip: Snag a spot at the chef's table, where Bunin will be serving up off-menu prix-fixe dinners, from three to seven courses, depending on what strikes his fancy that day. (118A E. 15th St. at Irving Place, 212-677-6300)
 
Allegretti
A French chef with an Italian name: That pretty much sums up Alain Allegretti's Provencal-inspired Flatiron spot, which seeks to channel the French Riviera's Italian-influenced cuisine. The Nice-born Allegretti, who earned his chops working with the likes of Alain Ducasse, keeps things familiar, with pastas (oxtail-stuffed Nicoise ravioli), seafood (seared dorade with razor clams) and meats (veal rumsteak with vegetable confit) that evoke sunny climes, complemented by the restaurant's own yacht-like interior. "I don't believe in very elaborate cuisine, like El Bulli," Allegretti says, referring to Ferran Adria's celebrated restaurant in Spain. "I had dinner there and I think it's spectacular, but I thought that David Copperfield was in the kitchen, not a chef. I just don't understand what I'm eating. That's not what I'm looking for." (46 W. 22nd St. between Fifth and Sixth Aves., 212-206-0555

Pita Joe
The falafel gets a healthy makeover via this new Union Square-area joint from Delectica owner Erez Cohen, who pimps out organic ingredients like chickpeas, eggs, flour and hummus, and cooks everything in trans fat–free canola oil. Cohen, who actually started out as a furniture mover until his homemade gourmet sandwiches became popular at the office kitchen, keeps it simple: four types of falafel (chicken schnitzel, grilled chicken breast, chickpeas, grilled eggplant), which can also be ordered as salads. Wash them down with one of five lemonades orto help stave off that food comaTurkish coffee with cardamom. (2 W. 14th St. at Fifth Ave., 212-627-7877)


Also open:

After bringing South African wines to Hell's Kitchen, the folks behind Xai Xai take on South African barbecue at nearby Braai. (329 W. 51st St. between Eighth and Ninth Aves., 212-315-3315

A makeshift "outdoor food court"tables, tents and allcalled The Landing has sprung up at an empty lot in Dumbo. The luxe hot dogs being served there (from a food cart run by Richard Mauro) serve as a preview for an entertainment hub that Mauro plans to build and eventually open in 2010, housing a restaurant and a black-box theater. (20 Old Fulton St. at Everett St.)

The old American Diner space in Nolita has morphed into French bistro Lulu. (235 Mulberry St. between Prince and Spring Sts., 212-966-6616

Industrial chic café/bar Building on Bond has soft-opened in Boerum Hill, with full-on food service reportedly to come after Labor Day. (100 Bond St. at Atlantic Ave.)

Here's a twist on pizza: gluten-free pies, courtesy of UES slice joint Opus. (1574 Second Ave. at 82nd St. 212-772-2220)
 

Closed:

Marion's Continental (Noho)
Border Burrito (East Village)
Gasparino's (East Village)

Photo by Sam Horine

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