Hot Plates

Inside Park at St. Bartholomew's Church

Inside Park
This is the gospel according to Matthew. Uh, Weingarten, that is. The former Savoy chef de cuisine preaches the glories of Euro-tinted American fare at this new restaurant located inside Midtown's St. Bartholomew's Church. He's serving up what he calls "heritage comfort food" with deep culinary roots—"Somebody's grandmother somewhere cooked this food," he tells us. Artisanal is the overriding philosophy here: Weingarten, who counts Peter Hoffman and Larry Forgione as mentors, makes his own terrine, pate, ham, jam and even sauerkraut, showcasing them in dishes like pork chop with mushroom fricassee, and pappardelle with rabbit ragu. The recently restored church, with its majestic beams and arches, completes the old-world picture. "It's turning out to be a very nice marriage," he says of the space and the cuisine. Hey, Matt, you are in God's house, so we hope he's got your back. (109 E. 50th St. at Park Ave., 212-593-3333)

Porchetta
Don't confuse this East Village newcomer with the infamous Jason Neroni–helmed Brooklyn restaurant of the same name that bombed last year following larceny charges and a mother lode of blog posts. This one's helmed by I Coppi's Sara Jenkins, and the grub should keep the food cops happy: slow-roasted pork served with both the fatty and crispy bits all meshed together. (It's available as both a sandwich—on Sullivan St. Bakery ciabatta—and a platter, with sides like chicory salad and roasted potatoes with burnt pork ends.) The shoebox-size joint—six seats inside, a bench outside—is decked out in tile, marble and a wooden counter. Laughs co-owner Dave Herman, "We were hoping to evoke a butcher-shop aesthetic without beating you over the head with it." (110 E. Seventh St. between First Ave. and Ave. A, 212-777-2151)

Mr. Jones
"People know sushi and sashimi, but don't really know their way around a yakitori menu," says the man behind the mister, Lesly Bernard (Tillman's). Here's a crib sheet in case you haven't visited one of the infamous St. Marks ‘tori parlors. Yakitori is Japanese grilled meat on a stick, usually coated with a tasty sweet/sour/fire glaze, and sometimes made with exotic products. Jones will serve chicken hearts and livers, along with Kobe meatballs stuffed with foie gras and smoked duck. Jean-Georges vet Bryan Emperor oversees the grill, which is fired with imported Japanese charcoal. B Flat's Shin Ikeda crafts the cocktail list. And about that name? "Mr. Jones is the one who invited you into his den to enjoy yakitori. He's an Anglo guy who happens to love all things Japanese." Rivers Cuomo, your table is ready. (243 E. 14th St. between Second and Third Aves., 212-253-7670)

Walter Foods
"This is like an old school, New York restaurant with great service," says co-owner Danny Minch, who previously worked at Balthazar and knows a bit about serving the famished 2 a.m. customer—which is when this Williamsburg throwback plans to close on weekends. The classic American menu features a full raw bar, with three daily oyster picks, pork chops, lobster club, burgers and "the city's best French dip," according to Minch, who named the restaurant after a "nostalgic-sounding New York name." Paging Ground Round, you've got some competition (our favorite French Dip up until this point). Now only if you could pay what you weighed. (253 Grand St. at Roebling St., Williamsburg, 718-387-8783)


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Photo by Sam Horine