Hot Plates

Bite-size dish on new restaurants: Desnuda, Via Dei Mille, Tom, Motorino, 508, Pranna

By Alexis L. Loinaz

Metromix
October 15, 2008

Hot Plates
Neapolitan pizzerria Motorino, in Williamsburg

Desnuda
Last year, the Bourgeois Pig moved across East Seventh Street to scope out roomier digs, and now its old, shoebox-size home has been transformed by the BP crew into this 20-seat ceviche bar (its name is Spanish for "naked"—how very...raw. Like...ceviche. Aaaaah.) Co-owner Ravi DeRossi describes the offerings as "New World ceviche," which "takes its cue from Peru but uses different spices from around the world." Translation: softshell crab and uni cured in coconut juice and sprayed with cardamom oil, and salmon with lychee and curry. In keeping with space's intimate feel, the two chefs behind the bar will personally take your order and serve your food, which also includes four types of oysters, as well as caviar. An oxidized copper wall lends the place a bluish-green hue, completing its subtle, sea-and-be-seen vibe. (122 E. Seventh St. between First Ave. and Ave. A, 212-254-3515)

Via Dei Mille
In an area that's got its fair share of Italian restaurants, Soho newcomer Via Dei Mille hopes to make a dent by pulling a Goldilocks: not too rustic (Bar Pitti), not too upscale (Cipriani), but something that's just right. Boys and girls, Via Dei Mille's own three-step program: (1) Take recipes from Venice-born exec chef Emanuele Simenoi's family cookbook; (2) update them with unexpected ingredients (think lasagna with lamb ragu and butternut squash); and (3) plate them up in a space that's both highbrow (chandeliers) and homey (woodsy accents). Sounds just right, all right. (357 West Broadway near Broome St. 212-431-0080)

Tom: Tuesday Dinner
In an unprecedented new dining model, Tom Colicchio (the Craft empire, "Top Chef") will personally cook dinner for 32 guests on two Tuesdays each month in a private space adjacent to Craft. Long seen as one of the city's most talented chefs, Colicchio has taken a few hits for spending less and less time showing off the chops that gained him such high regard behind the stove. Now diners (at least those with $200 to blow) can see Chef Tom work his magic on the day's freshest greenmarket ingredients as he slaves away in the space's open kitchen, serving up a seven-to-eight-course impromptu tasting menu. Let's see if "Top Chef" contestants show up to offer their old mentor/nemesis a quick-fire challenge of his own.... (47 E. 19th St. between Park Ave. S. and Broadway, 212-400-6495)

Motorino
Williamsburg gets its own upscale Neapolitan-style pizza parlor—and an enormous wood-burning oven—courtesy of Belgian-born, French-trained chef Mathieu Palombino, late of BLT Fish and Bouley. In the spirit of his erstwhile training, the use of premium ingredients, like Sicilian olive oil, San Marzano tomatoes and superfine "double-zero" flour, prevails in such traditional menu items as pizza margherita, marinara and three varieties of pizza Bianca. For an inventive, Belgian-influenced take, check out the pizza topped with mussels, fior di latte, tomato and basil. (319 Graham Ave. at Devoe St., 718-599-8899)

508
It's a literal "family meal" at this small-plates-focused Mediterranean spot located at the old Giorgione 508 space in Tribeca: It's owned by a husband-and-wife team whose daughter, Jennifer Hill (Del Posto), and son-in-law, Anderson Sant'anna de Lima (Landmarc) are co-exec chefs. Apparently, the family that cooks together...yields some nifty dishes: garbanzo with merguez, mint, smoked paprika and apricots; coconut-pineapple curry risotto—an homage to the family's other restaurant, Barracuda, in...the Virgin Islands (nice!). The family-ness doesn't stop there: Co-owner Lynn Fisher Hill says that they've made the place more neighborhood-friendly: She personally scraped off an old sign that barred strollers, added a kids' menu and opened up the dining room by reducing the bar space. "We live two blocks away," she says. "We were there on 9/11, and we're very committed to this neighborhood." (508 Greenwich St. near Spring St., 212-219-2444)

Pranna
The menu at this Asian-themed Flatiron-area spot, focusing on the cuisines of Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and India, represents the travels of Indian-born executive chef Chai Trivedi, who worked under Patricia Yeo at Sapa. Pranna, which means "life force" in Sanskrit, channels the spirit of those journeys in dishes like rack of lamb with Massaman curry sauce, Javanese pepper paneer and a selection of satays. Desserts come courtesy of Graffiti's Jehangir Mehta, whose own flair for combining spices complements Trivedi's oeuvre—check out his chocolate soufflé laced with cinnamon, star anise and mace. (79 Madison Ave. between 28th and 29th Sts., 212-696-5700)


Also open:

Pedigreed chef Brian Bistrong (Gray Kunz, David Bouley) strikes out on his own at Braeburn, breathing new life into the old Voyage space on Perry Street. The focus: seasonal fresh ingredients from Bistrong's own garden, enhancing Braeburn's casual but refined New American menu. Braeburn opens on Friday. (117 Perry St. at Greenwich St., 212-225-0696)

One sausage joint begets the next: The old Mandler's spot near Union Square is now Dogmatic Gourmet Sausage System (no connection; pure coincidence. Bonus points for the wacky name.). Make a beeline for the lemongrass chicken sausage with chimichurri sauce, and the lamb sausage with mint yogurt. (26 E. 17th St. near Broadway, 212-414-0600)

A father-son operation is behind Soho's Burger Creations, which, turns out, as more going for it than its namesake dish: Diners can order a variety of skewers—from chicken tandoori to skirt steak teriyaki—which can also be made into sandwiches. (52 E. Eighth St. at Mercer St., 212-539-1909

Another month, another new East Village ramen joint: Kambi Ramen House, Look familiar? It's designed by the same folks behind Ippudo. (351 E 14th St. between First and Second Aves., 212-228-1366)

92nd Street Y's new downtown location has an "eco-healthy" snack spot: 92YTribeca Cafe, serving kosher sandwiches and comfort food a twist (think wasabi-tuna deviled eggs), and sans meat. The cafe opens on Saturday. (200 Hudson St. at Canal St., 212-601-1000

A brick-oven-pizza monolith has landed in Cobble Hill: La Pizzetta, with over two dozen types of offerings, include an abruzzese sausage version with wild mushroom, as well as calzone, focaccia and imported Italian ice cream. (145 Atlantic Ave. between Henry and Clinton Sts., 718-855-6400)

Longtime UES gourmet purveyor Butterfield Market expands its reach with Butterfield Kitchen, peddling prepared foods like meat loaf, veal chop and salads. Opening Monday. (346 E. 92nd St. between First and Second Aves, 212-772-8782)


Additional reporting by Jeremy Cesarec. Photo by Dan Peterson.

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