Hot Plates

Bite-size dish on new restaurants: Ortine, Union Prime, Caracas Brooklyn, Jing

By Alexis L. Loinaz

Metromix
December 17, 2008

Hot Plates
Prime time: Union Prime takes over the old Cafe Society space

Ortine
Former Keith McNally vet Sarah Peck (Pastis, Schiller’s) is keeping it a homegrown family affair at her new Prospect Heights restaurant, which she describes as “Continental with a European-style café feel”: Her mother-in law creates the lasagna and pizzas; her hubby, an acupuncturist, serves up healthful Kombucha teas; her father made the wooden tables; and Peck herself plastered the wallpaper. Even the ingredients are literally homegrown, with herbs coming from Peck’s rooftop garden and maple syrup from her dad’s upstate farm. Expect seasonal fare with a locavore lilt, like roasted cornish hen with oven fries, a portobello mushroom–and–goat cheese sandwich, and a braised short ribs. And with entrees hovering around $15, Peck isn’t worried about diving head-first into today’s turbulent economic waters: “Having an affordable menu in a café setting is still accessible,” she says. “It’s not gonna break anyone’s bank, and it’s simple, filling food.” (622 Washington Ave. between Pacific and Dean Sts., 718-622-0026)

Union Prime
Apparently, 9 E. 16th Street had commitment issues in 2008: After housing Steak Frites (which hightailed it Tribeca in the spring) and the ill-fated Café Society (which shuttered in October), the space is now banking on restaurant Numero Tres—Union Prime. The steak-and-sushi spot—moody and dramatic, with low lighting and rose-patterned wallpaper—hopes its all-purpose menu finally strikes the right chord: “Ladies like the sushi, men like the steak, and men like the women,” cracks the restaurant’s manager. Which means straightforward chops like the “Perfect 10” (grilled whole tenderloin in red-wine sauce) and rolls like spicy tuna with roasted eel and avocado. At least the pedigree looks promising: The kitchen is helmed by a Bouley alum, and the sushi chef rolled in from Blue Ribbon Sushi. (9 E. 16th St. between Union Square W. and Fifth Ave., 212-675-4700)

Caracas Brooklyn
Arepas are commonly confused with greasy corn and mozzarella cakes ubiquitously served at summer street fairs. Those are American arepas, people! And while they’re pretty damn tasty on their own, they’re not the Venezuelan street-cart staple served at this Brooklyn branch of the popular East Village cafe. Back in 2002, Maribel Araujo introduced her version to the world—grilled cornmeal cakes stuffed with a variety of savory fillings, from guacamole and creamy cheese to shredded beef and pork shoulder. Combination plates of three arepas run around $20, with a range of empanadas and traditional entrees served. But go for the arepas, wisely garnished with a burst of Araujo’s secret (life-changing) sauce. (291 Grand St. between Havemeyer and Roebling Sts., 718-218-6050) 

Jing
After 20-odd years, the owners of West Side Cottage have done a little nip-tuck to their Hell’s Kitchen Chinese staple and upgraded it to Jing—hence the name, loosely translated as “a step above.” The gussied-up digs feature colorful murals and chichi wood furnishings, a selection of wines, plus a menu that has traded up ho-hum Chinese takeout munchies for a more pan-Asian lineup: barbecued pineapple chicken with satay sauce, chilled soba, and asparagus wrapped in pomegranate-marinated pork belly. (689 Ninth Ave. between 47th and 48th Sts., 212-245-0800)


Also open:

Frank Casano (Harry’s Steakhouse, Ulysses) expands his Financial District dining empire with Inatteso Pizzabar Casano, focusing on Northern Italian cooking with Sicilian influences. (28 West St. at First Place, 212-267-8000)

Marlow & Sons’ family tree keeps growing with Marlow & Daughters, a butcher shop selling cuts of meat both prime and obscure from mad-genius butcher Tom Mylan. (95 Broadway at Berry St., Williamsburg; 718-388-5700)

No ordinary Joe, this empanada: Empanada Joe’s unveils a third location, this one in Chelsea. (668 Sixth Ave. at 21st St., 917-338 4780).

More old-school Italian in Park Slope at Primo Atto, but with some twists: Think pan-seared filet of ostrich in port wine and blueberry sauce. (337 Fifth Ave. between Third and Fourth Sts., 718-369-0376)

It’s cafeteria-style eating at Midtown Japanese joint Washoku, with a self-serve buffet-by-the-pound and pre-packaged sushi, sashimi and more. (9 E. 37th St. between Fifth and Madison Aves., 212-686-2233)

The homey new pub Wilfie & Nell (named after the Irish co-owners' Belfast grandparents) serves hearty British and Irish grub, like meat pies, Scotch eggs and a corned-beef-and-gruyere sandwich, alongside beer, wines and specialty cocktails like the Whiskey Tea. (228 W. Fourth St. at Seventh Ave., 212-203-2486)

Are vegan ice creameries the next fro-yo phenomenon of the East Village? We’re keeping an eye out on Stogo, offering over 16 flavors of organic, soy-based scoops. (159 Second Ave. at 10th St., 212-677-2301)

Harlem rocks a Moustache all its own, with an uptown location of the popular downtown Middle Eastern mini-chain. Yes, with the usual suspects: falafel, grilled baby lamb ribs, and, of course, the titular Mediterranean “pizzas.” (1621 Lexington Ave. at 102nd St., 212-828-0030)


Additional reporting by Matt Rodbard. Photo by Jori Klein.

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