Co.
“Our pizzas are not always round,” declares the menu at Co., the hotly anticipated pizzeria from Sullivan Street Bakery guru Jim Lahey. (It’s pronounced “company.”) It’s only fitting, coming from the guy who hopes to break the mold for pizza-making in the city by bringing a bread maker’s keen craftsmanship to Neapolitan-style pies. Here, they’re created with a strong eye toward technique and artisanship, producing thin, lightly charred crusts in varieties like Ham and Cheese (prosciutto plus pecorino, Gruyere, buffalo mozzarella) and Popeye (an explosion of spinach, plus those same three cheeses and garlic). Crostini and salads round things out. The stark, wood-paneled room ditches the flash to keep the focus squarely on the pizzas, with two communal tables that inspire lotsa communing: The couple next to us happily swapped their raddichio-and-bechamel-topped slices for our Popeyes. Guess the restaurant’s name is pretty spot-on. (230 Ninth Ave. at 24th St., 212-243-1105)
Check out our Twitter page for our on-the-scene, blow-by-blow dinner at Co. on Tuesday.
Absinthe
Oddly enough, you won’t find the namesake liqueur on the menu at this elegant East Village wine-and-tapas boite from the same folks behind Atlas Café and Angelina Café: The place is named after the vice of choice of artist Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, whose artwork plasters the walls here. What you will find: French- and Spanish-influenced small plates from former Gramercy Park Hotel sous-chef Nelson German, who calls out his grilled octopus with Moroccan chermoula, and camembert-stuffed goat cheese with caramelized shallots and orange blossom honey. The 100-bottle wine list is equally Euro—Italian, Spanish, French—with about 40 available by the glass, plus four beers on draft. (111 First Ave. at Seventh St., 212-777-0440)
Bond Street Chocolate
Nope, it’s not on Bond Street: The name refers to the place where former pastry chef and choco-meister Lynda Stern (Atlas, Village) started her chocolate wholesale business, catering to spots like Dean & Deluca and City Bakery. Now, she’s given her goodies their own home, in a teeny-tiny East Village shop that she describes as “a little jewelbox, Old World-ish, with luscious wallpaper.” Sounds delish already. Stern experiments with different liqueurs (elderflower; Batavia-Arrack, which is extracted from Indonesian cane) and textures (caramelized almonds). She’s also got a wicked sense of humor: The chocolates are molded into figures like buddha, the Virgin of Guadalupe, skulls and even Jesus—“with Moses probably coming soon” she cracks dryly. There you go: Your daily dose of religion. (63 E. Fourth St. near Bowery, 212-677-5103)
Udon West
Midtown sure likes it fast-food Japanese: What was once a Teriyaki Boy has now become Udon West, trading those grilled meats for noodle soups. (Well, you can actually still get teriyaki here, but we’re guessing you don’t really go to Peter Luger for the shrimp cocktail, either.) It’s the third NYC location for the popular Japanese chain, which has over a hundred branches back in the homeland. Here, everything’s pretty standard and utilitarian, with 15 types of udon bowls ranging from shrimp-and-vegetable tempura to beef, clocking in at a thrifty $7.50 per. Throw in an extra $5 and you’ve got yourself a combo meal. We like, we like. (150 E. 46th St. between Lexington and Third Aves., 212-922-9677)
Also open:
Just when you thought it was safe to leave the fro-yo bomb shelter, along comes Daydream Frozen Yogurt in the EV, offering three flavors that change bi-weekly (banana, pomegranate), plus a plain version available either “creamy” or “icy,” depending on how fat you’re feeling. (110 Third Ave at 13th St., 212-228-4288)
Rooster’s musters up a crow’s feat in Bed-Stuy with hormone-free rotisserie served with soups, salads, sides and sauces. (448a Lafayette Ave. at Franklin Ave., 718-230-0098)
At Red Hook’s Piccolo Café, the fare is no-fuss fare—sandwiches, burgers. As is the space: a bare-bones lunch counter with equally sparse prices to boot. (221 Columbia St. at Union St., 718-522-5821)
At Sunnyside’s Sur Empanadas, the offering are both all-American (ham and cheese, pizza and beef) and not-so-all-American (the gallega, with tuna, onion, pepper, green olive and egg). We’re happy either way. (45-57 47th Ave. between 45th and 46th Sts., Queens, 718-706-8646)
Nothing much to write home about Stratta Pizzeria on Staten Island, although some nice specialty pies (vodka, arugula and veggie) make it a decent stop if you’re shopping nearby. (831 Arthur Kill Road., Staten Island, 718-605-5556)
Gourmet market Choice Greene brings an artisanal flair to Clinton Hill with cheese, cured meats, fruits, bread, even flowers and sushi. (214 Greene Ave. at Grand Ave., 718-230-1243)
Photo by Melissa Hom
