'inoteca
The Denton brothers, Joe and Jason, have reinvented their upscale, two-star Italian eatery Bar Milano into a juiced-up outpost of their popular—and cheaper—downtown small-plates spot 'inoteca. "It wasn't the right restaurant for the right time," Jason says of their decision to pull the plug on Milano before it felt the strain. "I didn't wanna have the decision made for me with the change in economy." The new 'inoteca, which Jason describes as "a little more rock 'n' roll," retains the same menu as its downtown sibling, plus two new menu sections: spiedini (grilled skewered meats like sausage with broccoli rabe) and primi ("Nonna-style" pastas like spaghettini with olive oil, garlic and chili flakes). Gone are the precious-chic accoutrements (carpeting, banquettes), which have been replaced with hardwood floors and farm tables, along with frugal-friendly prices in the $12-to-$14 range. (323 Third Ave. at 24th St., 212-683-3035)
Jollibee
When it comes to Filipino fast food, you can't get more gargantuan than Jollibee. The phenomenally popular chain, which drops its first East Coast location in Woodside, Queens, regularly beats Western fast-food joints in the Philippines at their own game by taking predictable staples—burgers, hot dogs, fried chicken—and adding twists that belie the country's Malay-Spanish-Chinese heritage. The result: Spaghetti is sprinkled with hot dog bits, fried chicken comes with rice and gravy, burgers are heaped with pineapple and bacon, and fried meat rolls are dipped in a sweet-sour sauce. For the purist, there's pancit palabok: vermicelli noodles mixed with fried pork rind, shrimp, sautéed pork bits and hard-boiled egg. Not quite the Happy Meal you'd expect, but jolly enough to keep this bee buzzing busily in Queens. (62-29 Roosevelt Ave. at 63rd St., Woodside)
Defonte's of Brooklyn
Revered Red Hook sandwich institution Defonte's of Brooklyn has a new creation: A Manhattan outpost—the first spin-off from the 87-year-old family-owned shop. Nicky Defonte, whose grandfather founded the business in 1922, brings the same no-fuss, no-bull approach that has made the Brooklyn location a local legend, going to great lengths to give a shout-out to the borough's purveyors. "I get my fish from a guy on Avenue U," he tells us. "I get my sausage from a guy on 18th Avenue. I get my corned beef from somebody in Greenpoint. I won't bullshit nobody. You got it or don't have it." What Defonte's has got: Time-honored faves like potatoes and eggs with mozzarella, and the Defonte's Cuban, with roast pork, Virginia ham, Swiss cheese, pickles and garlic bread. (261 Third Avenue at 21st St. 212-614-1500)
Sweet Emily's
There's no shortage of great Latin food in Hell's Kitchen (Chimichurri Grill), nor is there a shortage of great all-American comfort food (44 & X). Making the job easier for you: newcomer Sweet Emily's, whipping up Latin-inflected comfort food from Mesa Grill alum David Kruse. Hunker down for plates both small (coffee-rubbed chicken arepa) and big (grilled pork loin with apricot sauce), or just ditch it all and go straight for the chili cheese fries, which comes laced with pico de gallo. Ah, just like grandma's cooking—if grandma had lived it up in Guadalajara. Sweet Emily's opens on Saturday, Feb. 21. (321 W. 51st St. between Eighth and Ninth Aves., 212-957-9338)
Also open:
The team behind shuttered French bistro Le Gamin are now trafficking in Cuban-Brazilian fare at Favela Cubana, sticking to the basics like Cubano sandwiches and ropa vieja. (543 LaGuardia Place between W. Third and Bleecker Sts., 212-777-6500)
Shop and sip at Scandinavian Grace Kafé, the third New York outpost of the Euro design-and-coffee chainlet offering a selection of housewares to go along with that espresso. (668 President St. at Fifth Ave., 718-622-4045)
Unhurried-curry crash pad Bombay Bistro offers Midtown a reasonably priced buffet bonanza that takes diners on a tour from tandoori to poori. (155 E. 52nd St. between Lexington and Third Aves., 212-752-9587)
Williamsburg tapas spot Zipi Zape has zipped up its tapas and replaced them with Mediterranean fare at the newly revamped Barberry. (152 Metropolitan Ave. at Berry St., 718-599-3027)
Here's a new one: tapas with a Caribbean twist, from Upper West Side enoteca Cava. (185 W. 80th St.. at Amsterdam Ave., 212-724-2282)
And now, the winner of this week's Most Happening Restaurant Name: French diner Yo In Yo Out, which, presumably, won't keep you waiting for your food for long. (569 Lexington Avenue, between 100th and 101st Sts. 212-987-5350)
Photo by Sam Horine
