When it came to opening a new Chinese restaurant at the Gramercy Park Hotel, it looked like Ian Schrager had hit a great wall. The space had seen a series of stop-and-go mishaps: Originally called Park Chinois, it was to be run by Alan Yau, but the chef and his team were reportedly hampered by visa problems. Before that, rumor had Chinatown Brasserie owner John McDonald involved.

After consulting with the folks behind Nobu, who now help run the restaurant, Schrager turned to Yuji Wakiya. The author of eight culinary books, the Japanese-born Wakiya is a celebrity chef in his home country, renowned for his inventive Chinese cooking. But here he is in New York at the eponymous Wakiya, a year and a half later, hoping to breathe life into a project that was deemed dead.

Food: This is not your typical Chinese food. The menu is divided into cold plates, hot plates, soups, noodles and rice (dishes come in small portions meant to be shared), and it hints at the familiar: A cold dish called Bang Bang Chicken is Wakiya’s take on sesame chicken, while a Shanghai soup dim sum is actually the inverse of what you'd think—a spoonful of soup hugged inside a dumpling. Wakiya’s much-talked-about Fiery Red Pepper Hunt is truly a sight: a mound of Sichuan chilies that conceals crispy bits of chicken and lobster. (Now, read this carefully: You'll be tempted to taste the chili. Don’t. Again—don’t. Yes, it’ll be that strong: burning, numbing.) For dessert, Wakiya presents its version of affogato—condensed-milk ice cream with bits of coffee crunch, all doused with Chinese tea.

Booze: You’ll find a dozen or so fruity cocktails, such as the Pineapple Fresh, Cucumber Martini and Orange Blossom Cooler—good options for a crisp and refreshing palate cleanser (some include infused vodkas). About 15 wines are available by the glass, and a nicely edited bottle list offers variety, including a few Oregon Pinot Noirs.

Digs: A word: striking. A plush, crimson carpet runs the length of the dining room and is flanked by red tasseled curtains. Black leather banquettes sit against tapestried walls, while the bar is surrounded with black glass bricks. Tables for two are set up on the carpet, while a rear dining room serves as a makeshift VIP area.

Start the Clock: Should we time our chewing? Our reservationist said that tables have a two-hour turnaround time (because, of course, every paying customer should be given a time limit, right?). The food cops didn’t book us for overstaying, but when things get busier, keep an ear out for the sirens.

Vibe: On this particular night, out-of-towners staying at the hotel sat next to New York editors and members of the society set. A few Japanese investor types were there to pay their respects to Wakiya, who made a cameo at some point in the night.

Net results: what people are saying online

[Eater]: $600 for four? Absolutely. Outrageous.
[Urban Daddy]: Opulent, sexy—the Chinese revolution isn’t over
[Craigslist]: Now hiring at Wakiya: expediter
[Page Six]: Wakiya’s “friends and family”? Heather Graham, Chelsea Clinton, Helena Christensen
[Fortune Cookie Chronicles]: A look at the original Wakiya, in Tokyo

Wakiya
2 Lexington Ave at 21st St.
212-995-1330
Hours: Mon.-Sun. 5 p.m.-11 p.m.
Entrees: $16-$30

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