NYC Fall Dining Preview '09: Brooklyn

Things are Piquant, Purple and Pequeña in Brooklyn. And the cue? Fatty.

August 24, 2009

NYC Fall Dining Preview '09: Brooklyn
The Vanderbilt's razor clams with toasted sesame seeds, garlic-infused olive oil and Thai chili

Written and reported by Alexis L. Loinaz, Matt Rodbard, Edith Zimmerman, Ian J. Starck, Kelly Dobkin and Jeremy Cesarec

Piquant

259 Flatbush Ave. between St. Marks Ave and Bergen St., Prospect Heights
The former Mitchell’s Bar & Grill relaunches as Piquant, a Southwest-focused restaurant anchored by chef David Sharp, a native of Texas. We looked up “piquant” in the dictionary and appears to be another word for “tasty.” A good sign, from the owner’s stimulated mouth at least. Tacos will arrive stuffed with mahimahi or tri-tip, while toasted cumin crab cakes and orange-dusted shrimp with orange avocado salsa lean fusion. (September)

Purple Yam

1314 Cortelyou Road near Argyle Road, Ditmas Park
Amy Besa and Romy Dorotan—the owners of the now-defunct Filipino/pan-Asian Cendrillon—are keeping their cards close to their chest regarding details about their new Brooklyn venture, although Amy did tell us that they “should be up and running during mid-September, possibly October at the latest.” What they can guarantee however, is that any rumors that this will be a strictly Korean eatery are false: The kitchen will embrace Seoul food but also reflect Cantonese, Vietnamese and Indonesian influences. As for the menu proper, it is not close to being finalized, but Amy—via a note on Cendrillon's Web site—says she hopes to bring back “a lot of the old favorites from Cendrillon and slowly build from there.” You can certainly expect some Filipino influences: The restaurant's name is a reference to a popular Filipino ingredient known as ube. (Mid-September)

The Vanderbilt

570 Vanderbilt Ave. near Bergen St., Prospect Heights
Brooklyn restaurant pioneer Saul Bolton just celebrated the 10th anniversary of landmark Saul Restaurant this month, but he's not resting on his laurels: He set to open this Prospect Heights pub-grub spot featuring downscale bites like smoked bratwurst and blood sausage, which can be washed down with growlers of beer and chased with homemade jelly donuts. "Contemporary small plates, but with larger portions," is how he describes the menu, telling us that "you can't give a miniature bratwurst unless you have a pork chop and a little pulled pork sandwich, too!" Agreed. (Late September)

Pequeña

601 Vanderbilt Ave. at Bergen St., Prospect Heights
Popular and tiny Fort Greene Mexican spot Pequeña is spinning off a not-quite-as-pequeña location in Prospect Heights. There will, of course, be a full tequila-heavy bar (the liquor license remains from Barrette, the owners' burlesque lounge that once occupied the space). Expect similar offerings to the flagship, including decadent enchiladas, shrimp quesadillas and frozen margaritas with fresh lime juice—co-owner Erica Crawford tells us they was careful to purchase the exact same bar equipment so the popular margaritas will maintain their integrity. Plus, the addition of a grill will allow for a few more fish entrees and traditional carne asada. Since there's about twice the space, you can expect later hours and more of a bar scene. (October)

Arby's
372 Fulton St. at Smith St., Downtown Brooklyn
You can color us unashamed, un-ironic fans of Arby’s, the Ohio-based franchise that has won fans like us with their ridiculously crispy curly fries, three-story hat signs and freshly sliced roast beef. Real estate developer Raymond Chera is one such fan, having signed an exclusive deal to open 41 franchises in the next 10 years. Chera is kicking off his expansion in a major may, opening what we can confidently call the fanciest Arby’s in the world at the old Gage and Tollner steak house in Downtown Brooklyn. The building is freaking landmarked, causing substantial constructions delays. “People flock to Arby’s,” says Chera with noticeable delight. He calls burgers “boring” and takes pride when describing the chain’s signature condiments. Horsey sauce! (October)

St. Anselm
355 Metropolitan Ave. at Havemeyer St., Williamsburg
Brew-laden Billyburg standby Spuyten Duyvil is about to get a tasty new neighbor. Joe Carroll, owner of both Spuyten and Fette Sau, will open this snack bar of sorts next door, with adjoining outdoor space in back. Joe admits that the menu is a bit “all over the place,” but hot dogs and housemade sausage will be signature items. The beer and wine menu is completely unique from Spuyten's, and the bar will also feature a retail component. But you won’t find any 'cue here, folks. No need for it, with Fette Sau right next door. (Late October/early November)

Fatty Cue

91 S. Sixth St. at Berry St., Williamsburg

We should induct Fatty Cue into our Fall Preview Hall of Fame: It made our 2008 list and, after significant delays, is now on our 2009 list. Come on guys, we're pulling for ya—open already! This partnership between Zak Pelaccio (Fatty Crab) and former Hill Country pitmaster Robbie Richter will not serve traditional sauce-meets-pork barbecue, but rather smoked meats paired with astringent and aromatic herbs like dried and fresh chiles, young ginger, and Vietnamese mint, finished with flaming sauces and lacquers. Says an excited Pelaccio, "If you are eating something fatty and you bite into a bitter leaf, it's going to cut the fat, but what it also does is stimulate the appetite." Two antique hickory smokers will be housed in an adjacent driveway, near heated outdoor seating. Pelaccio also plans for a "huge selection of bourbons, great cocktails, great music and lots of meat." (Late fall)

Lucali Park Slope
691 Sixth Ave. at 20th St., Park Slope
This Carroll Gardens neighborhood favorite has made every “best pizza” list in town with its thin-crust wood-oven pies and calzones. Now, owner and accidental pizzaiolo Mark Iacono is passing the torch to brother Chris who will be running the show at a new Park Slope outpost. Details are still sketchy as to what exactly the new location will have to offer, but the menu will be essentially the same, at least initially, says brother Mark. (Winter 2009/2010)

Saltie
378 Metropolitan Ave. at Havemeyer St., Williamsburg
The talented former chef at Marlow & Sons, Caroline Fidanza, will open a café in the old Cheeks Bakery space in South Williamsburg. She plans to serve sandwiches, ice cream and pastries. (Fall)


Photo by Peter Pioppo

 

What other people are saying...

saraht from Cobble Hill, Brooklyn - August 24, 2009 at 4:34 PM

I can't wait for the new Pequena. Their black bean and sweet plantain quesadillas are to die for!

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