Veronica Julien, Veronica’s Kitchen

By Matt Rodbard

September 25, 2007

Veronica Julien, Veronica’s Kitchen
Photos:
Veronica’s Kitchen Veronica’s Kitchen
With long lines of Wall Street suits waiting (patiently) every weekday for a steaming plate of curried goat over plantains and black-eyed peas, it’s no wonder that Veronica Julien has received a few business offers during her 10 months on the block. “When I first started serving here I got a lot of offers from investors, but I turned them down because I guess I was shy and wasn’t bold enough,” says the Trinidad native. Every weekday, Julien wakes up at 3 a.m. to prep her oxtail, jerk chicken and savory sides like candied yams and fried plantains. Her dirty rice (a rich mix of beans, rice and salty fat drippings) ties everything together. It’s sturdy food for a tough day of trading.  
 
Where did you learn to cook?
I am from Trinidad, and they put you cook there at an early age. My father was a great cook.

What made you pick this location?
For six weeks I walked around the city looking for a perfect location, at different times and different places, and I just figured I would be here.

Describe your customers…
A lot of the other vendors complain about the people, but my people are friendly. All sorts of people come here: bankers, stock brokers, teachers, the radio station is here. I have people who come here every single day. When they don’t show up, they call me at home so that I won’t worry [about them]. Because I do.  

What dish sells out first?
Oxtail, then curried goat and jerk chicken.  

What is your average day like?
I wake up around 3 a.m. and start getting everything together…the raw meat, seasonings and ice. I put everything in an icebox and load it in the van. I leave my house at 5:30 and pick up my cart in Flushing. From there I load everything into the cart and drive to my spot, and start cooking. I wait until everything is finished to open, because if I open too early, the frying won’t get done.

How long do you braise you meat for?
Three hours for the oxtail, curried goat and beef, and one hour for the chicken. I add brown sugar to a hot pan and wait until it’s the exact right color and texture. At that moment I add one tablespoon ketchup, which adds this very unique flavor and color. I then bring the fire down low and drop in the meat.

How do you season the meat before cooking?
I blend celery, sweet peppers, onion, garlic and thyme with a piece of ginger. I then wash my meat with lemon and add the mixture.

Do you want to open your own restaurant?
I want to open a restaurant in downtown Manhattan. Right now I am trying to find the right spot, and hopefully I will get a great loan.

What do you think your chances are of winning the Vendy Awards?
I intend to win. My food is West Indian, that’s it.

Veronica’s Kitchen, Front St. and Pine St., 917-848-2465

THIRU KUMAR, NY DOSAS—>

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