Decadent, organic, indulgent, communal, fatty, healthy: duck. Whatever motivated five of the city's top toques to approach our ingredient of the year, versatility is what kept the game going through 2011.
Beyond the usual smear of eggs, fat-dunked fries and rillettes, duck managed a foothold this year, evolving from its most embryonic stage last winter—remember the balut at Maharlika's pop-up brunch?—to having its wings clipped on Bear's bar menu this fall. In between, duck was the golden goose, serving as centerpiece for tasting menus—bill-to-tail at Roberta's, blossoming with lavender at Eleven Madison Park, carved in ice cream at Wong.
Here, we asked five chefs—all known for serving stellar duck dishes this year—to break the ingredient down for us and explain what's keeping their signature snacks, salads, sandwiches, serving plates and sweets on their menus in the new year, and what they're hunting to replace it. The chefs include Kin Shop's Harold Dieterle, Wong pastry chef Judy Chen, Eleven Madison Park's Daniel Humm, The Dutch's Andrew Carmellini, and Bear's Natasha Pogrebinsky.
Year in Dining 2011: Going quack for duck!
Ubiquitous and inescapable, duck was the ingredient of the year. Here, six chefs talk about their spins on it.
By Adam Robb
Special to MetromixDecember 13, 2011
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