Banh mi ban!

Vada Pav | Sukhadia’s

Lunchtime Indian fare often translates into mundane buffets, but if you’re sick of steam-table biryani and tandoori chicken, it’s time to investigate the cheap, rib-sticking vada pav. The burger-like creation, Mumbai’s answer to the Big Mac, is one of the many vegetarian chaat (snacks) offered at midtown’s Sukhadia’s.

A patty is crafted from pureed potatoes, chiles, ginger and mustard seeds and fried to a crisp, creating a light crust while maintaining a soft center. Two chutneys jazz up what would otherwise be a mono-color meal. A sweet-and-sour tamarind sauce plays against the grass-green cilantro-mint condiment that sets off a slow burn. Everything is served on a fluffy dinner-roll-size bun. ($4)

Suitable sub? 3 stars. No mere novelty, the slider is substantial enough to keep both carnivores and vegetarians interested. No one ever said that meatless meant healthful, though. Fried potato is still…well, fried potato.

Sukhadia’s (17 W. 45th St. between Fifth and Sixth Aves., 212-395-7300)