Banh mi ban!

Bulgogi Dog | New York Hotdog & Coffee

With nearly 200 locations in South Korea, New York Hotdog & Coffee’s first stateside spot is gung ho on introducing us to their interpretation of the all-American tube steak. Their location on Bleecker Street’s tourist trail almost seems like a cruel joke being played on out-of-towners looking for classic dirty-water dogs.

You’d hope that even the most naive would figure out that kimchi isn’t a standard Gotham-style wiener topping. It certainly is tasty, though. The border-hopping bulgogi dog smothers a substantial frank with a generous pile of sweet garlic-soy beef strips dotted with sesame seeds. Crunchy lettuce leaves and pickle chips round out the meat fest on a bun. Hot fermented cabbage is optional, though the Korean relish should be a mandatory addition. ($4.99)

Suitable sub? 4 stars (out of 5). Finally an answer to “Where’s the beef?” Instead of feeling excessive, the snappy and chewy styles of meat compliment each other.

New York Hotdog & Coffee (245 Bleecker St. between Sixth and Seventh Aves., 917-388-2608)