BBQ schmo to BBQ pro

Fette Sau

Now that I’d seen barbecue from the Old West and the Far East, it was time to find out what down-home New York barbecue has to offer. Joe Carroll, co-owner of Williamsburg’s Fette Sau, has New York roots and grew up in Jersey—an unusual pedigree for someone whose output of smoked meats has made fans of critics, locals and aficionados alike. Just before the restaurant was set to open for the night, I sat down with Joe in front of the butcher-diagram-festooned wall to pick his brain.