Chef Shots: Wylie Dufresne

wd-50’s mad scientist shows us the genesis of his ice cream bagel

You won't find the Everything Bagel on wd-50's menu because it’s a tricky one to plate. If a table ordered eight of them, the kitchen would be hard-pressed to finish the eighth plate without the first one melting. "We have to pick and choose how and when we serve it," Dufresne says, "which is why we haven't committed to putting it on the menu." But it's sent as an amuse bouche to some tables, and to VIPs or special guests every night.